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Used (16065-1135) carburetor holders
- daveo
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The set I put on yesterday was originally mounted for a short while on a different head, and removed/stored for future use when that head was replaced a couple years ago.
The rubber mating surface is well-molded and heat-set with no cracks or checking, but the rest of the holder rubber is pliable.
The set does not mate well, but allows some outside air to get sucked into the motor. I did not use sealant when installing them, figuring they would just re-shape to this head when tightened down, but noooooooooo... I tested them by spraying carb cleaner onto the joints while the engine was idling, and there were noticeable changes in idle speed.
So, what's next? Perhaps it makes more sense to just get a new set. I don't want to risk sucking something used to seal them into the motor.
It seems like a good place for an O-ring.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- koolaid_kid
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I have read where Wintergreen oil will soften them up.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- daveo
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1982 KZ1100-A2
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- ZERO
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Only Kawasakis have a soul 1977 Kawi KZ1000 special 2000 Kawi ZRX1100
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- 650ed
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find.partzilla.com/?r=t&q=16065-1135&x=6&y=6
Attachment 00003_2014-01-09.jpg not found
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koolaid_kid
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1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koolaid_kid
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I bought mine at Z1E and r\they work great.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- daveo
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What I'm getting at, is the price disparity between OEM and aftermarket. An example...K&L carburetor kits for the BS34 contain fuel float valves that are not quite the same as the OEM Genuine Kawasaki (Mikuni) part. The OEM float valve currently sells for twice the price of a whole K&L kit! On close inspection, the parts are quite different, though designed to do exactly the same thing (which one does flawlessly).
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- daveo
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ZERO wrote: I use Kawibond sealant. It's fuel resistant. If there's any doubt, Dont use them. Few things will damage an engine as quickly as a lean condition caused by air leaks. For me, they look good. Use some sealant.
What if a swatch of rubber sealer breaks loose and gets lodged between the valve and it's seat? :ohmy: OUCH!
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- ZERO
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Only Kawasakis have a soul 1977 Kawi KZ1000 special 2000 Kawi ZRX1100
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