TOPIC:

Greetings all,
I have been 'tearing' down my '79 kz1000 LTD, and I finally got to the air box. I want to replace the air-box with pod filters on all four of the carbs. I have removed almost all attachments, but then noticed several hoses that connect to the air-box, I have no idea what I should do with them after I remove the air-box:
1) A large rubber tube that extends from the air box up to a multi-valve 'thing'
2) Two additional smaller rubber hoses that come down from this 'thing' and attach to the two outer carbs.
3) A smaller short rubber hose that comes up from the engine to the air box.

So, my question is what do I do with all of these hoses after I remove the air-box? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks.

The big hoses from up top can be removed completely and then you can just connect each of those ports on top of the valve cover together with a single piece of hose.

The elbow hose at the back of the crank case that went to the bottom of the air box can be replaced by a long hose that extends back and down, away from the engine and just vent to atmosphere

Those vacuum hoses that connect to the carbs need to remain in place for the bike to run properly. These should not be removed or capped off.

Also when going to pod filters you will need to rejet your carbs for it to run properly and not damage the motor.

Would avoid damaging the air box and keep it on hand for later re-installation, as removal and replacement with pods is a time-honored mistake that's persisted for decades.

Crankcase venting may be routed through a hose that exits underneath the bike.




Good Fortune!

Stazi wrote: .....
Those vacuum hoses that connect to the carbs need to remain in place for the bike to run properly. These should not be removed or capped off. ....

That is incorrect. When removing the Kawasaki Clean Air System, the vacuum tubing should be removed along w the other CAS stuff & the 2 vacuum ports for the system should be capped, usually the ports on carbs #1 & #4. The last photo (0333) shows the #1 port & the vac tubing w Tee. Depending on the bike, the vac ports are either on the carbs or the carb holders - use good automotive vacuum caps. Z1Enterprises.com sells them.

@Stazi thank you!

Patton wrote:

Would avoid damaging the air box and keep it on hand for later re-installation, as removal and replacement with pods is a time-honored mistake that's persisted for decades.

Crankcase venting may be routed through a hose that exits underneath the bike.

Good Fortune!

Thanks Patton,
I was able to remove the air-box without any damage.
I am completely modifying the bike; changing out seat, rear cowl, fenders, turn-signals, handle-bars, speedo-tach.
I originally wanted to go with a mod similar to what Sanctuary Bikes in Japan does, but really wanted in the end to do something of my own... and since the LTD is not such a collectors item, I decided to go with a custom bike of my own design.
Why do you say replacing box with pods is a mistake? Please explain, as the moderator, I conclude that you are speaking
with knowledge. Thanks.
Regards, Russell

Cos pods are a bitch to tune right, especially on bikes wih CV carbs.

PLUS pods get wet and lean out in crosswinds and the carb bank needs to find additional support or there is too much stress at the engine connectors. It's not so simple as they are a bitch to tune but yes they are also a bitch to tune. Just do a little homework and at least be informed before you make a decision because it's not fun to take out an airbox but it is way less fun to reinstall one or give up on a bike because it just won't dial in when you just want to ride. In the end it is your bike. But where does it say go fourth blindly and suffer the consequences of rash decisions. Besides it's good for the economy if bikes get sold frequently by disappointed riders. The engineers who designed those airboxes have collected their royalties for their jobs well done. Their dogs are out of the hunt but I have about a dozen airboxes and a;ways welcome a nice cheap pod bike into the herd. I'll fix it. And if ya got a poddie and you love it and have modded it to run right for you I salute you. I suspect that right for you does not mean right without the caveat. Your bike again. Good luck!

Replacing the airbox with pods is not a problem. Just be sure to start with Step 1.

Step 1 - become a carb expert extraordinaire.

Also; you may want to review the following. Pay CLOSE attention to the last 3 paragraphs on the last page.

kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/585949-po...-a-free-lunch#585949

650ed wrote: Replacing the airbox with pods is not a problem. Just be sure to start with Step 1.

Step 1 - become a carb expert extraordinaire.

Also; you may want to review the following. Pay CLOSE attention to the last 3 paragraphs on the last page.

kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/585949-po...-a-free-lunch#585949

With all due respect, I have several issues with that article.
First, for those of use who chose to run pods and a pipe on our bikes that have CV carbs, it is well known that the biggest issue is the needle. The DynoJet or similar jet kit is a requirement for proper performance. Several other changes are made when these kits are properly installed.
Second, it is also well known that plug chops, or better yet a wideband, is a requirement to perform the job correctly.
Third, the changes they made in the factory jet sizes are insane. I am using the stock pilot jets in my carbs and they are tuned perfectly in the low side. The huge increase they made in the main jets are also insane.
I would no more trust a 30 year old article to tune in the year 2013 that I would trust 30 year old tire designs and compounds.
Lastly, those bikes have CV carbs. The OP here has VM carbs, which are a totally different animal.
My apologies to all those who believe in the article, I have the utmost respect for you. I will not hesitate to agree that an improperly tuned carb bank will not react well with a pipe and pods, and the article proves that to a "T".

koolaid_kid wrote:

650ed wrote: Replacing the airbox with pods is not a problem. Just be sure to start with Step 1.

Step 1 - become a carb expert extraordinaire.

Also; you may want to review the following. Pay CLOSE attention to the last 3 paragraphs on the last page.

kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/585949-po...-a-free-lunch#585949

With all due respect, I have several issues with that article.
First, for those of use who chose to run pods and a pipe on our bikes that have CV carbs, it is well known that the biggest issue is the needle. The DynoJet or similar jet kit is a requirement for proper performance. Several other changes are made when these kits are properly installed.
Second, it is also well known that plug chops, or better yet a wideband, is a requirement to perform the job correctly.
Third, the changes they made in the factory jet sizes are insane. I am using the stock pilot jets in my carbs and they are tuned perfectly in the low side. The huge increase they made in the main jets are also insane.
I would no more trust a 30 year old article to tune in the year 2013 that I would trust 30 year old tire designs and compounds.
Lastly, those bikes have CV carbs. The OP here has VM carbs, which are a totally different animal.
My apologies to all those who believe in the article, I have the utmost respect for you. I will not hesitate to agree that an improperly tuned carb bank will not react well with a pipe and pods, and the article proves that to a "T".

I agree that much has been learned over the 30 years since the article was published, and VM carbs should be easier to dial in than CV carbs, but one statement in the article that I believe still rings true is where it states:

“Removing the airbox and installing individual air filters of any brand is a modification we could only recommend to hard working individuals who would be willing to spend as much or more on jets as they spend on air filters, and who would be willing to spend days or weeks rejetting.”

I know there are kits out there for rejetting carbs, but I haven’t read of any consistent formula that enables a person to rejet the carbs in a manner where they get it right the first time. Getting it right the first time may happen if a person is lucky, but from what I’ve read there’s quite a bit of fiddling required before the bike will run as well as it did in stock trim. So the point I was making was that before switching to pods the OP should be become very familiar with carb theory and be prepared to spend considerable time tuning the carbs. Ed

Proxy wrote: PLUS pods get wet and lean out in crosswinds and the carb bank needs to find additional support or there is too much stress at the engine connectors. It's not so simple as they are a bitch to tune but yes they are also a bitch to tune. Just do a little homework and at least be informed before you make a decision because it's not fun to take out an airbox but it is way less fun to reinstall one or give up on a bike because it just won't dial in when you just want to ride. In the end it is your bike. But where does it say go fourth blindly and suffer the consequences of rash decisions. Besides it's good for the economy if bikes get sold frequently by disappointed riders. The engineers who designed those airboxes have collected their royalties for their jobs well done. Their dogs are out of the hunt but I have about a dozen airboxes and a;ways welcome a nice cheap pod bike into the herd. I'll fix it. And if ya got a poddie and you love it and have modded it to run right for you I salute you. I suspect that right for you does not mean right without the caveat. Your bike again. Good luck!

Thanks Proxy, you have a good sense of humor! It is a good thing that it only rains about once a year here if we are fortunate.
I have been planning to do these mods for about six months now, and have gone back and forth, I guess I will just see if I am able to pull it off and have the bike running properly after the pods are installed and the carbs are tuned in... if I do fail on the build and get tired of it not running well I will look to circulate it back into the the US bike economy, of course it will have to be shipped back first. However, I'm not one to easily give up on a build, and had some success with my previous enfield build, which also originally had an air-box:


Cheers and thanks again for the feedback.