geerbangr wrote: Please share tuning tips with heat gun. Where do you take your readings from ? What heat range are you looking for ? I'm assuming basic tuning tips would apply ? If the heat range is too high , fatten that cylinder up if the cylinder is reading to cool leaner out huh :evil:
You have the general idea. I have a single O2 sensor that is past the collector. This is attached to a small datalogging computer. I use this two ways. At idle I can watch the computer as I make adjustments to the airscrews. This gives me rpm and conglomerate AFR. Then I put it into datalogging mode and go for a ride. When I get home I can download the log into my laptop. This tells me all I need to know about main jet adjustments and needle height settings.
Now I use my little laser thermometer to check the individual head pipes just past the head. I aim it at the first bend on top. This is typically the hot spot. As you surmise I'm looking for equal temperature and thus equal combustion. On my bike when fully warm, the cylinder head is just over 300. The individual headpipes are about 270 at idle. A good example is the other day when I brought my bike out of mothballs, it was running snotty just off idle. I knew something was amiss in my pilot circuits. Checking the headpipe temps revealed two cylinders that were only 150 degrees at idle. This was mostly latent heat from my run around the block and I'm sure that given enough time those cylinders would return to room temp. That test told me just where to check for clogged pilot jets. Sure enough, I had two pilot jets that were clogged with green crust.
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