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Kz750 twin carb / throttle problems
- Schmeck
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1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust
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- bountyhunter
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Yes, it's s special tool.Schmeck wrote: What do you mean by raise the needles? Going through the top of my carburetor there is a ring that me nor the mechanic could get to . Is there a special tool for that ring ? My snap ring pliers dont reach it .
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- koolaid_kid
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The speedometer cable goes to the front wheel.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust
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- 650ed
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Regarding your bike's idle - 2,000 rpm is not idling; that is way too high. What happens when you set the idle at or near 1,000 rpm? Ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koolaid_kid
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This is an absolute indication that you have a leak, which will also cause your high idle after warm up. Personally, I would not do anything else carb-wise until this is resolved.Schmeck wrote: I also sprayed the boots and the rpm fluctuated ever so slightly. I might have a potential leak in my boots.
From looking at the parts fiche, I would check the clamps (especially that the carbs are fully seated), the balancer tube, and where the boots bolt onto the head.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- Schmeck
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1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust
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- Schmeck
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1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust
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- 650ed
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Your understanding of the effect of leaking carb holders (“boots”) is correct; they will cause very erratic idle at low rpm. With the idle set very high, the slides are open quite a bit so there is less vacuum applied to the carb holder leaks, but with the slides down as during normal idling the leaks have a noticeable impact on the bike running. I can’t say new carb holders will fix all the problems, but it should help the idle. Once the new carb holders are installed you should sync the carbs. If you replace the carb holders soak the screws that hold them to the cylinder head with Kroil or another high quality penetrating oil for a couple days before attempting to remove the screws. Otherwise, those screws can be VERY stubborn, and lots of folks have damaged the screws or cylinder head by not doing this. Also, be sure to use JIS type screwdriver bits on those screws. If your not familiar with JIS bits just ask and I can provide a good link explaining what to do.
Here’s a place that has New Old Stock (NOS) carb holders (they have a very limited supply). I have bought from them numerous times before and was always pleased. www.themotorcyclepartsoutlet.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi Just plug in the part number from the Kawasaki.com diagram below. Ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- koolaid_kid
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If you don't have a JIS screwdriver an impact wrench can almost always get them out, but they will not be re-usable after that.
1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.
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- Schmeck
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On another note for peace of mind , I am going to clean out the tank again . I might use evaporust ( which is expensive). On the other hand, if I use muriatic acid, Can anyone suggest a better way to seal the tank to prevent unwanted rust? Thanks for the help, and thanks Ed for the website to get the boots.
1979 kz750 twin -Soon to be roadworthy
1988 El250 engine in custom hard tail frame - collecting dust
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- 650ed
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kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335
1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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