Carb Holders

Yes, I have an 82 750 CSR Twin.

anyway. I got them off finally, I did it the old way of a sharp chisel and a small hammer making my own groove on the outside of the head of the screw in the direction I wanted it to turn. It worked as usual.

I found this stuff made by permatex called PermaShield It's gasket dressing and Flange sealant resistant to gasoline, diesel and ethanol. Also it's vibration resistant

It's a polyester Urethane Sealant that stays rubbery and doesn't get hard. It also withstands up to 500 degrees F. So that's always a plus. The boots had already been "fixed" with what appeared to be grey silicone sealant. Which explains why they leaked again. I cleaned off all the old stuff and went to the local hardware store and got 4 stainless allen bolts to replace the ruined philips ones. I put the permashield on the cleaned carb holders and bolted them down. Gonna go reinstall the carbs shortly and keep my fingers crossed

Hoping for good results with the Permatex PermaShield.
Will be good to hear of a product that successfully seals the carb holders and prevents air leaks for anything longer that a short temporary repair.

Others have reported some success with ThreeBond 1194 (or comparable sealant).

Silicone-based sealers are reportedly short-lived because of being resistant either to fuel or heat, but not resistant to both fuel and heat.

Good Fortune!

use some anti seize paste on threads when putting screws, bolts or allens back in.....wont have these problems.

so, after all that.......rode up and down the street, no leaks, no weird lean popping noises...get home pull the clutch in and snap....clutch cable broke.......now I'm really pissed....so I got on z1 and ordered one. geeze I wish there was some place local that carried that stuff or someone local that had an extra temporarily lol

johnjones750csr wrote: they are philips head screws and aren't in too good of condition, almost stripped all of them.

I know they look like it, but they are not Phillips head screws; that's why you had to butcher them to remove them. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screws. I tell you this because you will end up chopping up a bunch of other screws on your bike if you keep trying to use Phillips screwdrivers on your Kawasaki. If you use the correct screwdriver bits you will be amazed at how easy the JIS screws are to remove and install. Unlike Phillips screws, which are intentionally designed to have the screwdriver "cam out" at a certain level of torque, JIS screws can handle much more torque without the driver stripping them, but it must be the correct JIS screwdriver bit. If you run into other problems working on you bike you may want to ask questions on this forum. LOTS of experienced folks here who have been through the learning curve the hard way.

See link:
kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

Probably a little late now but the easiest way to remove screws that have been stripped is to take a Dremel with a cutoff wheel and make a slot in the head where you can take it out with a flat blade screwdriver. Common must know information

wow, I've never even heard of JIS screws all the years I've been working on japanese stuff....crazy now I guess I"ll have to figure out where to get one of those tools.

I couldn't agree more. The only issue is, my dremel is at work, and work isn't open on the weekends. so I had to do it the way I did it.

Don't feel bad. I had my bike 30 years before I heard of them. They really do work; even if you make your own like the ones I show in the link. Also, if you have never used Kroil penetrating oil you should give it a try. It really does work wonders if you soak the fastener for a couple days with it. You can get it at some hardware stores, gun shows, or directly from Kano Labs online. I use the regular half pint can with the little spout; not the aerosol or silicone stuff. Ed