'78 Kz1000, had to drill out stuck pilot air screw

The carbs had been sitting for 29 years. The pilot air screw (by the way these are the stock Kz1000 carbs for 1978) the pilot air screw on the #2 carb would not budge. I tried a 'screw extractor' bit to no avail. I finally realized I had nothing to lose, I had to get the pilot air screw out of there and I drilled it.

However I did not drill it to the maximum diameter of the threaded hole in the carb to protect the threads. Now I've got a thin layer of whatever the original pilot air screw was made of (brass probably) and I can't get it out of the threads. Also, there is of course a spring down at the bottom of the hole that the pilot air screw goes into, and that's still down there.


Any suggestions? This tiny sucker is kicking my azz.

It may not help you now, but in the future if you have fasteners that won't budge soak them for a couple days with Kroil; you will be surprised at how nicely they will loosen up. I've used it several times on threaded items I thought were beyond help and it far exceeded my expectations. Ed

Ed, where can you get that stuff?

Try sticking the handle end of a chainsaw file(without the handle)down in there like an easy out to grab whats left of it.
Ive got some extra carb bodies stripped off a rack of 26s if you need one for it

4TheKZ1000 wrote: Ed, where can you get that stuff?

If you want some really good stuff look for zep45
[attachment:1]C:\fakepath\zep0149-lg500.jpg[/attachmen

www.kanolabs.com/ makers of "Kroil"

4TheKZ1000 wrote: Ed, where can you get that stuff?

My best friend is an industrial engineer; he told me about this stuff because they use it where he works. I ordered mine from the maker (Kano Labs - see 1st link). I bought one "Kroil 1/2 pint (8 oz.) can - $9.25 ea." from their order page (see about halfway down the page in 2nd link) and have been using it for about 8 years. A little goes a long way. I have not tried the AeroKroil, but frankly I wouldn't buy it in the aerosol form. The regular 1/2 pint can I bought has a built in spout that works well.

I have also seen it for sale at gun shows.

The first time I used it was on the threads on the rear master cylinder brake rod that I had first tried very hard to turn with no success. I soaked it for 2 days. After the soaking it turned so easily I thought something was wrong. Happy camper! I have used it on the original screws that fasten the carb holders and the tach drive screw to the cylinder head and they came out very easily. None of these fasteners had ever been touched in 27 years.

www.kanolabs.com/penLub.html#anchor173855

secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order.shtml

+1 regarding Kroil. I've been using it for years at work and it's like magic on frozen seized parts.

I've been to the hardware store and based on their metric "screw gauge" I know my pilot air screw's threads are 8mm x 1.xx

But I cannot tell if the thread pitch is 1.25 or 1.50.


I have to re-tap the pilot air screw hole in the #2 carb, and (of course) buy a new pilot air screw so I need to use the right tap.

Is the pilot air screw 8mm x 1.50
or is it 8mm x 1.25?

HALP.

Its brass so Im gonna guess its 1.5,that would be finer thread right?

If the screws are same as 26mm carbs Ive got extra pilot screws

wireman wrote: Its brass so Im gonna guess its 1.5,that would be finer thread right?

wireman, 1.5 thread pitch, 8mm x 1.5 is what I'm thinking too, fine threads on these idle screws, and I'm screwed too because the local hardware store does not sell 8mm x 1.5 thread pitch taps, dang it.

Everytime I mess up on a bike, Jeff Bezos over at Amazon is getting paid seems like....

www.amazon.com/8mm-High-Speed-Steel-Plug/dp/B0006FI82G