Az Emissions Help!

Old Man Rock wrote: ...I don't see any mention of these being accomplished....
Failing ignition components (coils/points/timing etc...) Low coil voltage, in-accurate ignition timing, carb sync, Valve clearances accomplished....

Above quote is very important advice, worth repeating:
Voltage to coil;
Ignition timing;
Carb sync;
Valve clearances within specs.

Because, even with otherwise perfect carbs, a deficiency in one or more of the noted items usually produces incomplete combustion within the cylinder, which results in an excessively rich exhaust containing unburned fuel mixture.

Good Fortune!

Obviously, as said, make sure everything is running 100% up to snuff in ignition, valves, carbs, clean air filter, etc. Also make sure the carbs are balanced right, I would check fuel levels in bowls (clear tube).

You should probably install a set of pilot jets one size smaller than standard. That's EXACTLY what kawasaki did for the California models of the 750 twin to reduce emissions. It will make the engine run weak, so after you pass the test put the right ones back in and keep the small ones in a bag for the next test.

Wireman - Thanks!

OMR - Thank you! The coils/ points/ timing , carb sync, and valve clearances are in spec so I'll definitely try leaning it out and grabbing some B6ES plugs for emissions. And it couldn't come any sooner :laugh:

Ill keep you guys posted with the results here hopefully in the next couple days.

Also forgot to mention my pilot screws are about 1/4 to 1/8 turns clockwise to be fully seated, is that normal? or is it different for everyone? Only because omr mentions to tweak both the pilot jets till she'll barely run and that as I mentioned above only takes about a 1/4 to 1/8 turns to do so.

Coil voltage...?

Plug conditions before replacing them...?
If they were carboned up/black sooty then you're way rich on the pilot/slow jets or your carb pilot/choke circuits are faulty....

@ 1/8 - 1/4 turn off fully closed, best guess right now would be too rich of jets for AZ elevation/climate.... I would think for any carb, normal pilot settings would easily be 1/2 - 1 turn out...

Test this first in your garage to confirm pilot adjustments where she'll start or not... then repeat at station testing...

Run the sea foam/hotter plugs, 1800 rpm before going for the test...
Then outside of the testing line, tweak her lean. Then shut her off and try re-starting, adjust real slightly until you can get her to start again. Remember they'll bitch about choking her so you need to get it to start...

You're allowed to do what ever you want to the carbs before entering the test BAY, after that, not allowed so they say... If they bitch to loud, inform nicely w/Please show me in your manual where I'm not allowed to choke it to start...Please....

Be nice and don't be a dick about it but be firm in asking where in your procedure writing it states that on a non fuel injected carb vehicle I'm not allowed to choke it to start it... As I had stated, this is a non computerized engine, the test is for idle and you have to let me start it to idle test it.... :blink: :S

Good luck and let us know but definitely confirm the coil voltages, if they are low <+12Vdc then you'll most likely not pass...


OMR

CafeKid wrote: Also forgot to mention my pilot screws are about 1/4 to 1/8 turns clockwise to be fully seated, is that normal? or is it different for everyone? Only because omr mentions to tweak both the pilot jets till she'll barely run and that as I mentioned above only takes about a 1/4 to 1/8 turns to do so.

Use the Clear Tube Test to verify the Fuel Level in the Float Bowls is correct, maybe set to the low side of the spec would be enough to lean it just a bit without changing jets. If you have a air compressor, take the Mixture screws out, and use some spray carb cleaner in the holes and then blow them out. This will help clean the Slow Air Jet and passage out.
Like OMR said, you won't be able to make any adjustments while in the Inspection Bay. You may need another test to see how you have done, and see if you gained on the high readings. Also riding the bike there, then shutting it of and waiting for an extended period, then restarting and testing on a cooler engine won't help. Try to keep it up to temp.
1 more: Make sure your Oil is Clean as the breather system will draw up any fumes from the crankcase.

Well how'd it go? I just took mine through emissions last week and passed easily, and I'm running pods and a bobbed exhaust. I also have the coil relay mod. Guy running the test said he couldn't believe for a 34 year old bike how clean it ran