Az Emissions Help!

Hey guys, not sure if this is the correct sub forum but oh well. Went to have emissions done and failed. Need some help on what to do next to solve the problem.
I had taken the initial test and after the test I realized the choke was about a quarter open :pinch: but when I retested I still failed

STANDARDS @ IDLE
Hydrocarbons - 1800
Carbon Monoxide - 5.5

- 1st Test w/ 1/4 Choke @ Idle
FINAL READING
Hydrocarbons - Passed Test @about 1500 (didn't get a chance to write the number down)
Carbon Monoxide - Failed Test @ 7.4

- 2nd Test Closed Choke @ Idle
FINAL READING
Hydrocarbons - Failed Test @ 2041
Carbon Monoxide - Failed Test @ 5.94



All help appreciated, Thanks!

If they are just checking Idle, then your just a tad rich on the Idle screws. Co% is just a bit high as well as the HC%. Try leaning out your Idle mix about 1/2 turn. Make sure your RPM is still the same or close to it.
Weak Spark can have a high HC% reading, but the two together looks like its just a bit to rich on fuel.

Thanks Motor Head, I think they average the idle numbers with the precondition numbers. When they do the precondition test they have you hold the bike at about 2.5k rpm then let it go back to idle.
I'll definitely try leaning out the idle mix tomorrow though.

Also if it where a weak spark would replacing the plug solve the problem?

New plugs might help if they are worn or dirty. Weak spark is more low voltage to the ignition coils do to having resistance in your wiring and switches. Measuring the voltage to the coils and compare to voltage across the battery. Possibly to high of resistance in the spark plug wires/ caps. Make sure your plugs don't have an "R" in the part #.

Pm OMR,hes got the az emission thing figured out! :laugh:

I may be wrong but I think OMR has a write up for the sdjustments to make to pass inspection

Here are some links to posts by Old Man Rock that include info regarding exhaust emission testing.

Click > www.kzrider.com/forum/advsearch?q=emmiss...ildforums=1&catids=3

Good Fortune!

Wireman and Ramtough_63 - Thanks! I checked that out but wasn't 100%, Ill definitely look further into that.

Motor Head - Sounds good, I'll see about checking voltages as well. And nope just the standard B7ES plugs

Thank you as well Patton!

Omr runs a used car lot on the weekends so hes used to sneaking questionable vehicles through emission testing.
He finds a lot of his inventory sitting just north of the border pointing north with nobody in the drivers seat,who am I to judge? :whistle: :woohoo:

Motor Head has got it about right....

2 fold here, one being too lean/ignition off causing the HYDROCARBON being high. Now high CO% would normally indicate too rich, I know confusing.... but with ignition low coil voltage/inaccurate valve clearance/valve/head issues would receive the same crap measurements....

For testing only, you may want to run a set of hotter plugs for high CO%, non burned fuel in the combustion chambers.... Or run your coil voltage through a switch directly from the battery. I'm not a fan of this where similar to the coil mod but if your switch/wiring is so crap may have to go this route but only to get through emissions only! If switch/wiring at fault, fix it...


I don't see any mention of these being accomplished....
Failing ignition components (coils/points/timing etc...) Low coil voltage, in-accurate ignition timing, carb sync, Valve clearances accomplished....

Had this bike been through AZ emission previously & passed with the jetting in these carbs...?

Run a can of Sea Foam through a full tank of gas prior to testing. Then only fill the tank 1/2 full pre testing using low octane full....

To get through emissions, take a small screw driver with you.
1) run the bike until the engine is thoroughly warm.
2) before entering test station line, with all above mentioned measured/confirmed for ideal adjustment/operations, do the following...
3) While in line, don' shut her off and don't just idle only... Twist the throttle hear and there.

* set rpm for ~ 1800rpm
* tweak the slow/pilot jet equal turns in both carbs where she'll barely run/idle...
* back them back rich 1/16th - 1/8th of a turn for easier starting, they'll bitch about choking her to start after having you turn her off before the testing.

Once passed roll her out of the bay, tweak your pilots back (richer) and set your rpm to normal operations

The 2500 rpm test is normally done when the idle readings are too high.... If well within range, idle only is required/accomplished during the testing. Kind of goes with the concept of setting your initial idle high, somewhat of a benefit to the owner of old carb'd engines.


Keep at it, yes it's a bitch here in AZ but it can be done.... the next month or two they are suppose to vote yes/no on emissions on motorcycles. finally...

OMR

Almost forgot....

What do your plugs look like...?
Would inform you of what condition she's also in...