KZP 1000 Starts and idles fine on full choke…

Patton wrote: Just guessing a little, but am uncertain that those Bosch spark plugs are the exact equivalent for NGK B8ES.

Also, if an "R" plug (often signifying a "Resistor" plug) is used with resistor plug wires or a resistor plug cap, the "R" plug likely adds too much additional resistance in the so-called secondary loop, which reduces spark quality, resulting in less efficient combustion.

NGK's "R" plug is BR8ES.

Having used NGK plugs, am unfamiliar with Bosch plugs, or equivalency of Bosch with NGK.

It's perfectly all right to combine solid-core (non-resistor) plug wires with non-resistor plug caps and non-resistor spark plugs. But should expect radio interference.

Stock KZ's use resistor spark plug caps as the only resistance in the secondary loop.
However, any single resistor component may be used if desired, so long as it's only one single resistor component and not more than one resistor component.
In other words, where resistance is desired in the secondary loop, use either resistor wires or resistor cap or resistor plug, but never in combination with one another.

Good Fortune!

How do you tell if you have resistor wires or cap?

bl_francis wrote: ...How do you tell if you have resistor wires or cap?

A spark plug wire's conductive core underneath the insulation may be a form of carbon (resistor style plug wire) or metal such as copper (metal core style plug wire).

The spark plug cap probably attaches onto the end of the plug wire by "screwing" into the center of the plug wire.

Removing the cap should reveal the inner core of the plug wire. If the core looks like metal strands, it's probably a metal core (non-resistor) style plug wire. If it looks like anything else, such as crumbly carbon, it's probably a resistor style plug wire.

If the plugs wires are removable from the ignition coil, and the cap is also removed, whereby the core is visible at each end, an ohmmeter may be used to measure and determine whether there's any resistance in the wire. A solid metal core wire will offer zero resistance. Whereas a resistor wire on the other hand will measure some resistance.

Any resistance afforded by the spark plug CAP may also be determined with an ohmmeter. Measure between the clip (that attaches onto tip of the spark plug) and the "threaded" metal point (that "screws" into the center of the plug wire).
Resistor caps usually have a piece of carbon built inside which provides the resistance.
An old plug cap may be smashed to see and examine the piece of carbon. But it's like Humpty-Dumpty, and can't be put together again. :lol:

Good Fortune!

Took my carbs and this what I found.

they look pretty bad, is that a filter on the pilot jet?

hold them up to the light and see if you can see through them, also make sure all the little holes on the sides of the main jet is clear. hold your carb up and make sure the float valve moves freely.

I took them all apart and blasted them with carb cleaner until they were clean. I took off the o rings.

I've been having the exact same issue with my 1990 KZP. Cleaning the carbs thoroughly helped with the idle, but I still can't give it any throttle or it dies. Still working on my problem, I'll let you know if I find a solution. Have you come up with anything since your last post here?

I took it to a mechanic and he cleaned the carbs more thoroughly and bench tested them . Now it runs fine.