KZ750 Starts hard after sitting a few days?

  • Motor Head
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02 Jul 2012 10:27 #533297 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic KZ750 Starts hard after sitting a few days?
A couple other things.
Voltage could be a problem. What is your battery voltage, and coil primary voltage, any drop between them? Once the bike has set for several days, has the voltage dropped in your battery? What about when cranking with your starter, whats the battery and coil primary voltage then? You don't want the typical 1v or more drop at the coils from battery voltage. In a perfect system there would be almost no difference, an older system can have several volt loss. Try to get it so it is less than .5 volt difference at the coils, compared to battery voltage. The fuse panel, and switches, every connection, etc, will show some drop, hopefully you can get it so its not much total.

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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02 Jul 2012 11:55 - 22 Jan 2013 20:30 #533322 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic KZ750 Starts hard after sitting a few days?
never mind my mistake
Last edit: 22 Jan 2013 20:30 by martin_csr.

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  • AaronOregon
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02 Jul 2012 12:06 #533330 by AaronOregon
Replied by AaronOregon on topic KZ750 Starts hard after sitting a few days?
Brand new battery and the coil mod was done a couple months ago for strong voltage. Could possibly be the petcock though. It is really tough to turn and might be leaking internally. Maybe I should rebuild it? I will try it next.

Aaron

1980 KZ750E - Pods - 4 into 1

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03 Jul 2012 10:30 - 22 Jan 2013 20:28 #533560 by martin_csr
Last edit: 22 Jan 2013 20:28 by martin_csr.

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15 Sep 2012 22:28 #548954 by winox
I had the same problem until I replaced the neoprene seal that is located behind the plate with the lever. This is the seal that is about 1 and 1/8 inch in diameter and it has 5 gas routing holes in it. The old seal had aged and deteriorated around the edges of the holes and so it could no longer seal out the gas when the fuel tap was set on "On". The longer the bike sat the more fuel went into the carbs. It was apparent the float valve needles could not keep the carbs from overfilling. The carbs will continue to overfill and will eventually drain into the airbox, then into a hole at the bottom of the box and onto the garage floor. So unless you replace that seal (alternatively, a friend suggested replacing the OEM fuel tap with a Pingel fuel valve), you'll continue to have problems trying to start your bike with flooded carbs.
Hope this helps,
winox

1983 KZ1100
1978 XS1100

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