TOPIC:

Hello, everyone! Long time listener, first time caller. Over the past few days I've done a little searching and reading and pondering and I still can't really figure out my problem.

I've got an '81 KZ550A. I've got pod filters and a 4 into 1 exhaust on it now. I was told that it's got a 630 kit installed, but my mechanically advanced friend and I are leaning toward that being a lie. It's got electronic ignition, which I'm not sure if it's stock or added later.

(It's also got a really touchy rear disc brake, which is odd to me, because it seems that it would be a drum brake bike, being a stripped model for the most part. I only mention this in case someone can happen to tell me if it's most likely stock or added later.)

Anyway, this friend just helped me finish some carb work a shop had given back unfinished. At last my bowls don't constantly pour out gas. However, "problem" 1 is the fact that it now takes about 15 minutes for the bike to warm up to operating temperature. I can deal with this, but it used to just take about 3 minutes and I'd be on the road.

"Problem" 2, the real reason I'm here, is this: Once the bike has warmed up awhile, I can rip the throttle and get quick, crisp response, no stalling or sputtering at all. It doesn't really hang from idle or anything of the like. Once I'm in gear and rolling the story changes completely. The first few takeoffs always kill the engine. Even if I rip it up to a few rpms and then start to let out the cluth it just sucks the life out of the engine. I can wait a few more minutes and manage to take off, although I know better than to try to rush into traffic.

Once I'm rolling down the road, the bike stutters VERY badly at pretty much any rpm. I first noticed it was at 3500 rpm, but it seems to be spread across the rpms now. Anytime I'm not on the throttle fairly hard the bike sputters and pops and cracks like mad. I can rip the throttle and it'll smooth out a bit, but as soon as I even out things get choppy all over again.

Thanks so much for any help anyone can give. This seems to be a great community here, with so many knowledgeable members, and I'm glad to be a part of it.

The ignition is probably stock, I believe the 550 went electronic in 80 or 81.

Definitely good to know, thanks! I think I need to replace the "rotating cylinder" (dunno what to call it) that actually conveys the engine rotation to the ignition, so that'll help alot in finding parts.

Looks like you and your KZ met on about the same terms and me and mine. I picked her up for $300 as my first bike, and about $300-$500 later we're still going strong. Good times.

have you checked the timing to see if advancer is working?

I think I need to replace the "rotating cylinder" (dunno what to call it) that actually conveys the engine rotation to the ignition, so that'll help alot in finding parts.

Kawasaki shows it as "21148-1016 ADVANCER" and shows the 81 as having electronic ignition.

It also shows the 81 (and 82) KZ550A as having a drum rear brake.

The best (and fastest) way to fix your bike is to use a structured troubleshooting approach (and the Factory Service Manual makes is a lot easier).

(1)Check/adjust/repair the ignition.
(a) Check the advancer with a timing light, it should be ~10 degrees (at the F mark) BTDC when idling and advance to 35-40 degrees (usually between a couple of lines on the advancer) at 3500-4000 rpm.
(b) Check the primary and secondary resistance of the coils (with the plug wires (or plug caps) removed. Should be 2-3.5 ohms on the primary (little wires) side and 16k-20k ohms on the secondary (between the spark plug wires) side.
(c) Check to see if you have 12 volts at each coil with the ignition switch turned on.
(d) Check the spark plug cap resistance, should be no more than 5k ohms.

(2) Check/adjust the valve lash to ensure the clearance is within specs (I don't know the specs for the 550).

(3) Do a compression check (Throttle held wide open or carbs removed), best to check when the motor is warm, but cold will work.

Post the results of your checks here, and if it still runs like crap after all the above is up to snuff, then we (someone other than me) will go on to the carbs.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/06/04 13:40

We were talking about it yesterday and had come to the conclusion that we think it's probably the advancer, and then to come here and read the same thing makes me feel a little better about it. We didn't have the bike there to look at, so I'll probably have to wait until I can get it out to his place next weekend to put a timing light on it.

The valves have been checked and were fine, and the compression was the same all the way across, so we've ruled those out. I'll grab a meter from the shop if I get a chance and check out a few resistances to see what I get. The plugs and wires were just replaced, but I don't think we did much with the coils.

I'll definitely post results. Thank you all for being so helpful, hopefully I can return the favor sometime.

Ok, here's a bit of an update.

We checked the timing at idle (1100 rpms) and it was fine. We then checked the timing at 3500 rpms and everything was perfect, right on the money. The advancer seemed to move 99% freely (it hasn't been greased recently and could use a bit). All the mechanicals seem to be in good order.

As for the electrical aspect, we're not convinced yet. The pertinent, visible, possible problems I'm seeing are with part no. 21148, the advancer (the wheel assembly on the advancer looks worn a little on the raised lobe. Could this cause any of these problems?), and with part no. 59026, coil,pulsing (it looks like the advancer wheel may have grazed it at one point, and the insulation on the wires coming out of the base of it has pulled back, leaving exposed wire for about 1/4"). Another part we're wondering about is part no. 21119, the igniter. I'd assume if it went bad you'd get no fire, but I'm not sure either way.

On another note, I realized that the diagrams on Kawasaki.com show the '81 as being a points ignition. I had to go to the '82 diagrams to get those part no.s. When I went to the dealer to price the above parts, I was told that '81 didn't have digital ignition (the reason I came back to check kaw.com again), but the '81 LTD did. My VIN comes up as a Std. model, though. I really don't know what the heck is going on, I guess I got a late year '81 or someone's been playing around swapping parts.

Two suggestions... First, the pods you put on ensure the bike will be hard to start and will warm slowly. There are no replacement pilot jets and the choke and pilot circuits are a bit lean as a result. Are all the little flappers on the choke plates still there? If any are missing, it makes it all the worse with even more air being let in to lean the mixture further.

If you need a new ignition, you might want to contact www.z1enterprises.com and ask about a Dyna S ignition. These things are dirt cheap these days. They replace both the igniter and pickup coils. If you want to be on the safe side, a Kaw factory manual will have electrical checks for both those components to verify their operation before ordering a new ignition.

The "before" that I'm comparing the long warm-up time to is actually no different mechanically. I had the pods and wide open exhaust before any of this, it's the only way the bike's ever been while in my possession. I need to replace the pods on there now, though. Would going back to an airbox be a wise decision for drivability and longevity? I know I don't have a drag bike here, so I'm not going to act like I need the hp (what, 1.5hp? ).

I was looking at dyna's website yesterday when I was trying to find parts and figured that might be the way to go. I see there's a kit for $120.00, but no igniter in the kit. Does Dyna allow for using the factory igniter and coils? Also, while I'm on the subject, a friend is looking to change his 900 to electronic ignition, probably with the S-kit as well. I guess I'll need to find an igniter to go along with it?

Sorry for the random questions, just figured I'd spout them off since they've got me a bit puzzled. Thanks for all the help, definitely!

I e-mailed Z1Enterprises and from what he told me the Dyna kit replaces the pickup ring, and also gets rid of the igniter. I priced the parts through the local shop (the stock parts, to see what I was up against) and the pickup ring was $147. The igniter was $651. Wow. So if I can find some proof that I'm replacing the right thing (my meter and my bike haven't had a chance to meet yet) then I'll go ahead and order up the Dyna stuff. I've already got cash in hand from a fellow KZ owner who wants me to order his when I order mine, so at least I have a little motivation .

I did a little more troubleshooting while I was waiting on someone and figured I'd add this: With the choke fully engaged, all the way to the click, the bike would run good from a stop until about 3K, then stall and hold it's speed (sounding terrible at this point). I could click the choke back down, not necessarily all the way off, and it would run good. Not great, just good. But once I'd slow back down a bit I had to re-engage the choke. The worst part of this is that I can't necessarily say for sure it this is what's been causing the problem all along or not. I'm so freaking confused now.

Nick, The owner of Z1enterprises.com is Jeff Saunders. He is 100 percent reliable and knows as much about Kawasaki bikes as anyone in the world. If he suggests that a Dyna S can replace your stock pickup coils and igniter, then I would tend to believe him. From personal experience, I have installed several dozen Dyna S units in the past couple years and vouch that what Jeff says about this subject is true. Jeff is also a member of the KZRider family and I suspect he would be red-faced if he gave you bad install or application info. He also is one of Dyna's volume dealers and his prices will be what you can get from Dyna directly. The Dyna S does indeed replace the OEM pickup coils and igniter as these functions are built into the unis which appear similar to OEM pickup coils.

In case he frequents the forums at all, I want to say that I wasn't doubting his intelligence. I got a reply from Steve Saunders, BTW. I was merely 1) doubting my conveyance of the question, as I tend to call parts the incorrect technical name (i.e. pickup ring ), as well as 2) wondering if my parts are indeed bad, or if further testing will show something else. I believe that the Dyna S is the answer, it's just a matter of if I'm asking the right question.

And just for reference, his price is about $29.99 cheaper than Dyna's website.

Edit: Thanks alot for all the help, BTW!

Post edited by: NickD, at: 2006/06/19 15:27