1980 Z1 Carb conversion help needed.

So I have tried everything I can think of to get the bike to run properly with the original fuel injection system and it still is hit or miss if it will start and run and if it does it will cut off after 10 or 15 mins of running and then not start again for a few days... Not really sure which piece is causing the problem but I am finally ready to give up.


I bought some carbs off a 1977 KZ1000 that seem to be in pretty good shape but I don't know the first thing about trying to convert the bike from EFI to Carbs. If anyone has done this I would really appreciate tips etc.

The biggest thing I'm not sure of is what if anything I will have to do with wiring to get it up and running with carbs. I'm wondering if disconnecting all the EFI stuff is all I will have to do since I'm hoping everything else is on it's own wires.


Anyway I would really appreciate any info you guys might have on this. I searched all over the place and can't find much info at all. From what I heard Kawasaki had their mechanics pulling the efi off and installing carbs so you would think someone somewhere has some info on the process.

Thanks!

Try this before changing the FI to carbs:

KZ1000 G Model First Generation FI

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

This switch is in the air filter housing, a movable "Flap" that is tied to the switch. Kawasaki changed this to the Throttle Position Sensor(TPS) on the 1982 and later GPz's




1980 KZ 1000 G1 (Z1 Classic)
I took this from the www.kzrider website.

below is a description with autos and part numbers for this throttle switch. ONLY COST $80.

This little switch has *profound* affects on the usability of the bike. Only 1 side of the 2-pole switch was intermittently bad, and it basically made the bike UNUSABLE.

I found the switch today at O'Reilly Auto Parts store here in Silicon Valley -- they used the matching autos to look it up in the O'Reilly computer in the store (using 'Kawasaki' or the Kaw part number was *not* useful, it had to be a car with the year/model or a part number for the switch).

The local O'Reilly store today looked it up for the 1979 Datsun 280zx and they HAD ONE IN STOCK. Put it on the bike, I'm gone on a 45-minute ride around the Valley!
NARY A HICKUP. Bike is fiiiiiine.

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

If I were you, I'd buy one to have on hand if your bike acts up like this rider's did.



Kawasaki TPS Differences

Just a quick note, The TPS from an 81model (B1) is not the same as a TPS from an 82 model (B2), the 81 TPS is just a switch for on-idle / off-idle while the TPS in an 82 (and onwards) is a true Throttle Position Sensor. The B1 EFI hardware is rubbish and is essentially the same as the z100G/z1000H models.

See here for the differences: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kawasaki_GPZ1100_B1/B2

Sid

Re:1980 Kz1000
larrycavan wrote:

If you end up needing a fuel pressure regulator, Google "pogue machine Oklahoma City" Call them. You'll either get Sid or Butch on the phone. Get one of their adjustable regulators. You probably won't have to even touch it after bolting it on.

You guys are doing a good job diagnosing this bike. If you can afford it, get the injectors cleaned & balanced too.

FYI, the filter will never be full when the bike is running. Generally 1/2 - 3/4.

Check all the vacuum hoses over carefully. That rubber is pretty old now

Larry C


Okay thanks Larry, yes these guys have helped me take the bike from:
- not running for 10 years
- running like a new bike
It was a long road but the rewards in learning and riding have been great. I have to say without Motor Head this bike would probably have carbs on it right now. Let me say the prior owner had really given up on ever getting this going again, it is remarkable that apparently the bike has turned a corner for now. I am open to the possibility of the 'rough running' symptoms returning but right now it is running incredibly well.

Thanks for the pointer to the fuel regulator -- that sounds like a good feature to be adjustable and will check it out if my regulator gets ornery.

I was planning to get the injectors cleaned but this bike is close to pulling up the front end on a hand full of throttle so for now I'm going to ride it. However I will check the hoses which is something I have not done. Most of the turnaround effort on this bike has been electrical in nature.



If after reading and doing some checking, you've decided go go with the carbs, try this:

Re:Another 81 GPZ.
Saki Jockey wrote:

What are you running for Carbs / jets?


TK-22 carbs from an LTD(Same carbs on 550 A1-A3/C/D1, but D1's are black and have bigger main jets.)

Mains drilled to 99 (from 92 on the LTD, but D1's come with 94 mains).

Pilot jets drilled to 34 (from 32).

And I'm using Dynojet DN0205 needles from the 2305 kit. 3rd clip from top (out of 6possible positions), no shims
This is similar to the K&L rebuild kit Y77 needle which is identical to the Kawasaki 4D93 needle which is the adjustable version of the stock needles. On the Y77 or 4D93 you want the 2nd or 3rd clip from the top (out of 5 positions). (2nd mimicks the fixed position of the stock needle exactly.)

Mixture screws are about 1.25 to 1.5 turns out.

That was just a rough setting, but it seems to be flawless. Starts easily (even without a battery). Full power past redline, no pops, no hiccups, and no dead spots. I may have gotten lucky on the setting.

Thanks for the info so far.

What I really need to know right now is if I will have to do anything to the wiring on the bike to get it to run when i put the carbs on. I can't seem to find much info anywhere about this and I'm not sure if having the computer disconnected etc. will effect the bike starting and running with the factory efi wiring setup.

The wiring that you need to run without the EFI is there and complete. If you start at the pulse coils down on the right side of the engine that are behind the cover with two bolts, you can follow those wires up to the next bundle of wires and with a razor blade very carefully cut the tape and you will see that the wires that permit the bike to run without the EFI are actually a seperate circuit and after you get the tape off you can disgard the EFI wiring.

This will be the pulse coils,coils,and the wires that go to the kill switch and key.

Then you can retape those wires.

I could do this in 15 minutes.

I personally would try and get the bike to run with the EFI if it will run at all. Maybe a dirty gas filter? Roy

Thanks for the info Roy!

I have tried just about everything to get the EFI to work properly for a while now and finally decided to give up. The bike never had a problem since bought new by my dad in 1980 but it sat in a garage the past 8 years and when I got it the bike ran ok for a few months but would cut out randomly and leave me sit and decide to start 20 or 30 mins later.

It got worse and worse until I could barely get it to start and when it did it would run great for 15-20 mins and then shut off and not start again for a long while.

Tested just about everything I could think of. Bought the manual with the supplement and followed all the test procedures but I was never able to figure it out and really as much as I want to keep it original I would rather have it be reliable so I can ride.

Anyone have any suggestions to plug up the injector ports on the head? That's the other thing I'm not sure what would work best. I bought intake manifolds for the carbs from Z1enterprises and I was told I will need to drill the holes in some but that also seems to be a chore so far. The dremel doesn't seem to work too well.

I'm happy to report that the conversion is done and the bike is finally running again. Seems the computer was bad before but with my new Mikuni carbs on there the bike has come back to life

Still need to re-jet the carbs and adjust valves etc. but it runs for now. I am selling any of the fuel injection stuff if anyone out there wants it. The only thing I am pretty sure doesn't work right is the computer. The bike wasn't charging when it would run previously and now that the computer is disconnected and carbs are set up it has started charging my battery again. Strange but glad that problem seems to be resolved for now too.

Any suggestions for jetting the carbs for my Z1 with pod filters and a stock exhaust?

What carbs are you running?

Mikuni VM26 I believe. Got them off craigslist from a guy that was parting out a 1977 KZ1000

I have pod filters on and have been using the jets that were already in there but I ordered jets for it from Z1 enterprises last week. Just waiting for them to show up.

The pic is how the carbs looked when I got them. I cleaned them up and polished them some.

Hello Meckface and Roy B, I have also just acquired a 1981 GPZ110 with the first year fuel injection . Last registered in Tennessee 1999 and has been setting outside but only 7.5 K miles and not molested or dropped. Best thing only 300 bucks. Picked up some 34 mm carbs off police bike in nice shape this week on ebay, now shopping for manifolds. Is 40 bucks plus shipping worth it for used or should I get new? Working on terribly gunky gas tank. Did you use the 7/16 tap and plugs to plug the injectors? Any more advice on the wiring disconnect which was really was helpful. How does timing advance, is it not part of the fuel injection?
Is there anything I can do to help you?
Thanks Bob

Possibly help in getting you going...

NOTE: Keep in mind elevations/temperatures/climate conditions such as humidity etc...

Thanks for the carb info. Since the plan is to retain the stock look wherever possible the only thing I am adding is Emgo pods to keep the budget intact while I see if the bike is viable. So I will go up one jet size UP two sizes and subract one.
I noticed today that it will shift into first and neutral but cant get it into 2nd. Do these bikes have shifting problems or is it probably some simple broken the side cover that is common to these machines? Thanks
Bob

The bikes need to roll to be able to shirf. Roy