ZX750 Turbo DFI...has anyone tried?

crossposting: Great things happened today, and the bike ran, idled, was able to be adjusted with my home-made manometer...and I have a shit eating grin a mile wide.

Now for another topic for Other Questions! Thanks for the help you guys gave!

I'm Back.

Steell: do you still have the throttle bodies?
my list before: was that comprehensive as to what I need or am I missing something?

my objective is not more power - it is to take away the unknowns and variables of these craptastic carbs and their leaky, 20+ year old selves.

Hope Necroing this won't ruffle feathers.

Yep, still have a set left.

Throttle position sensor fits on the end of the throttle bodies.
Get an Air Temp Sensor off a GM car in the wrecking yard, or buy one at a auto parts store, then mount it in the air box.

You can get cylinder head temp sensors that will fit under a spark plug or any bolt on the head, and use that for coolant temp.

Walbro external fuel pumps are available on eBay for less than $100.

MegaSquirt 1 is available in kit form for less than $200 at DIYAUTOTUNE (Google), Around $250 for assembled unit from same place.

Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors can be removed from the same GM car, or parts store.

You can tune with a narrow band or wide band O2 sensor, wide band is better. Check 14point7.com.

I've built my 12 up far beyond the capacity of the stock injectors and computer, so I got an MS3 for it. Staged injection (8 injectors) with individual cylinder spark and fuel trim, sequential injection and spark (4 coil on plug) shift control, built in data logging, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I'm shooting for 250+ hp, all motor.

Just to let you know what's possible


You can always tell when someones afraid of learning new stuff:

"What do you want EFI for? Go with carbs" :laugh:

steell wrote: Yep, still have a set left.

WICKED. Would you part with it?

steell wrote: Throttle position sensor fits on the end of the throttle bodies.
Get an Air Temp Sensor off a GM car in the wrecking yard, or buy one at a auto parts store, then mount it in the air box.

You can get cylinder head temp sensors that will fit under a spark plug or any bolt on the head, and use that for coolant temp.

Walbro external fuel pumps are available on eBay for less than $100.

MegaSquirt 1 is available in kit form for less than $200 at DIYAUTOTUNE (Google), Around $250 for assembled unit from same place.

And they're basically the only show in town? it doesn't make sense to try and use a GPz1100 or 750 Turbo ECU?

steell wrote:
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensors can be removed from the same GM car, or parts store.

You can tune with a narrow band or wide band O2 sensor, wide band is better. Check 14point7.com.

That's the Lambda detection unit? I presume I'd need one, or one for each exhaust?

steell wrote:
I've built my 12 up far beyond the capacity of the stock injectors and computer, so I got an MS3 for it. Staged injection (8 injectors) with individual cylinder spark and fuel trim, sequential injection and spark (4 coil on plug) shift control, built in data logging, and a whole bunch of other stuff. I'm shooting for 250+ hp, all motor.

Just to let you know what's possible


You can always tell when someones afraid of learning new stuff:

"What do you want EFI for? Go with carbs" :laugh:

I get a lot of that. So learn Me: Your '12'? A ZRX? MS3 must me be Micro/MegaSquirt#3.

ZX12. MS3 is not the MicroSquirt, it's a lot more flexible and physically larger. It's for when you need to squeeze out every last ounce of power, MicroSquirt is fine for normal use. MegaSquirt is not the only game in town, just the cheapest stand alone system available, because it is a community designed effort, AKA Open Source.

If you could find a good 750 Turbo ECU it would work for a 750, but you can't change anything, a first generation Hayabusa ECU would be better, as software to edit the cpu is available. But I think you'd soon be wishing for a MegaSquirt as the tuning software is far better. But MegaSquirt is not easy, reading the MegaManual is the first step.

AFR/Lamda, measured with O2 sensor.


DiyAutoTune

14point7.com

msefi forum

Honestly, all I want is stable fuel delivery - I don't care about power gains. i feel like I'm fighting a losing battle with carbs and want to go in a sane direction so I can have peace of mind with my GPz.

So if I can get a Turbo ECU (I know of one), at least that will be the same plug, etc. A Hayabusa one would require remapping outright, and would have different plugs. Going the Squirt way would be about making the connections match, but would be more flexible...

Hmm. I may try the ECU fromn the Turbo first.