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Stored bikes
- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- hydrolazer
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\'79 kaw 1000 ltd
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- KZ_Rage
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- Kentucky Bourbon Barrel Ale
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650ed wrote:
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You're idling it too long! Just look at all the melted snow! :side:
1979 KZ1000E1 SOLD!
1984 KZ550F2 SOLD!
2006 ZG1000A6F (Totaled)
2001 ZRX1200R (Sold)
2001 Sprint 955i ST (daily rider)
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- bountyhunter
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It's busy working on Texas:650ed wrote: If only this "global warming" thingy would come my way I'd be happy. :woohoo: Ed
"Can you hear me now, George?"
:laugh:
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bountyhunter
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That white foam is DEATH for engines because it is water in the oil. That water reacts with hydrogen byproducts of combustion and forms hydrochloric acid which will eat the engine from the inside. I was told you NEVER want to start it unless you run it long enough to force the oil temp above 212F to vaporize the water and force it out of the oil. Motor oils have acid neutralizers in the additive package to help fight this acid formation, but it's a limited amount.riverroad wrote: Hey 650ed, I used to run/ride mine periodically during the winter months, but I found that if I didn't run the thing for at least an hour, the bottom end stayed cold and then I'd get that nasty white milky oil film across my sight glass.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- cobura
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- forever 2 wheels
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1979 KZ650B3
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- 650ed
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cobura wrote: Hey 650ed, has your engine always been that clean, or do you have some special cleaning technique???
The first time I polished it the engine had not been polished since it was new. It took me a couple days (in winter, so no biggie) to get it looking good. Now, once a year I use a combination of S-100 Cycle Finish Restorer and X-treem Metal Polish to clean up my engine. It takes a while (and a couple beers) but it’s not bad unless you let it go for 5 or 10 years. The S-100 is a thick paste metal polish and the X-treem is polish saturated cotton (but much finer than NevrDull). Both of these products work well and do not leave tiny scratches as they don’t contain any harsh abrasives. I use a popsickle stick wrapped in paper towel and these products to clean between the engine fins. The S-100 cream is best for areas where you can easily wipe off the excess paste as you shine it. The X-treem works well between the fins because it doesn’t leave any paste to be cleaned up as you shine it. If you engine has deep corrosion you may need to start with something more aggressive then use these products, but if your engine is just dull gray aluminum without pitting these should work well for you. They’re available at some bike shops or online. Ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- riverroad
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- 1980 1000LTD B4
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But supposedly stainless steel doesn't react with aluminum like carbon steel does.
Here's a place to get them: www.solobrushes.com/Family.asp?FamilyID=148&Cat1ID=4&Cat2ID=7
Then follow up via 650ed's advice.
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- trianglelaguna
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- New and improved - extra strength
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650ed wrote: For the winter I add stabilizer and fill the tank. Then I run the bike for about 15 - 20 minutes every week or 2 so fuel moves through the carbs, oil stays on the cylinder walls, and the battery stays charged. If there's a day that's not bitter cold I try to take at least a short ride. The only time I had to remove & clean the carbs was one year long ago when I failed to do the above. Those carbs gunked up big time with a red lacquer and the bike wouldn’t run above 50 mph. Here’s a pic of a year or so ago when I was doing my 20 minute idle but not able to ride (guess I'm just a wimp in my old age):
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1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife
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- Polar_Bus
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Bikes:
'84 GPz1100
'06 HD Fatboy
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