'80 Z1 Classic Conversion

I've been working on a Classic all summer and have delt with Jim at Redline, NICE guy and knowledgeable! About 2 months ago he DIDN'T have a brain box. The owner of this bike has emailed the "oldkawman" and on his suggestion we are going to convert this one to carbs. Reason being is, IF you can find an operating brainbox, and can afford it, there is NO TELLING HOW LONG IT WILL LAST! No way to "fix" them either. I've tested ALL the component's of this system, and Jim has tested the brainbox and found it to be bad. I bought different pumps and mass airflow sensors to no avail. Got about 500 into it so far. SEND THE BOX TO JIM! Have him test that FIRST.
I would like to know what components are needed to convert it to carbs if anyone here has done it.
Thanks, and good luck!
Later,
Kenny

well i talked to jim and will send in the tps, fuel pump and control box for testing. thanks for the advice kenny

On these it is a Throttle switch, and not a TPS. Cheaper to just get a new one, from the right source its like $30. Fits the older nissan Z car. We wrote it up before and its here. The thread was from New_oldKZ1000. Mfolks has the info saved and can provide if needed, PM him. He got one from his local Auto Zone, in stock over the counter for like $70. Getting the injectors serviced properly, so they are cleaned and flow tested, that should be done. Computer bad? Well always a chance of that, but really an old system suffers from wiring issues, resistance in the wiring will cause problems. Dirty contact at the multi-pin Computer connector, and Airflow sensor. Broken wires near the Computer under the seat, from harness flex.
Those systems were slightly different on the cars between the mid 70's and 80's, but share several parts. Double relay, Throttle Switch, injectors, Injector resistors, ect.
If you needed a Computer repaired for one, a licensed Bosch repairer should be able to do it. In the old days these Bosch Jetronic Computers were available as exchange Items.

1980 FI “G” model Kawasaki information

Actually, the manual(s) you need are the following:

KZ1000 Motorcycle Service Manual: Kawasaki part number #99924-1006-05

and

KZ1000 Classic Motorcycle Service Manual Supplement: Kawasaki part number #99963-0035-01 . Try going to www.repairmanual.com with these numbers for a new,clean, factory shop manual



1980 KZ 1000 G1 (Z1 Classic)
I took this from the www.kzrider website.

below is a description with autos and part numbers for this throttle switch. ONLY COST $80.

This little switch has *profound* affects on the usability of the bike. Only 1 side of the 2-pole switch was intermittently bad, and it basically made the bike UNUSABLE.

I found the switch today at O'Reilly Auto Parts store here in Silicon Valley -- they used the matching autos to look it up in the O'Reilly computer in the store (using 'Kawasaki' or the Kaw part number was *not* useful, it had to be a car with the year/model or a part number for the switch).

The local O'Reilly store today looked it up for the 1979 Datsun 280zx and they HAD ONE IN STOCK. Put it on the bike, I'm gone on a 45-minute ride around the Valley!
NARY A HICKUP. Bike is fiiiiiine.

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

If I were you, I'd buy one to have on hand if your bike acts up like this rider's did.

Re:1980 Kz1000
larrycavan wrote:

If you end up needing a fuel pressure regulator, Google "pogue machine Oklahoma City" Call them. You'll either get Sid or Butch on the phone. Get one of their adjustable regulators. You probably won't have to even touch it after bolting it on.

You guys are doing a good job diagnosing this bike. If you can afford it, get the injectors cleaned & balanced too.

FYI, the filter will never be full when the bike is running. Generally 1/2 - 3/4.

Check all the vacuum hoses over carefully. That rubber is pretty old now

Larry C

Okay thanks Larry, yes these guys have helped me take the bike from:
- not running for 10 years
- running like a new bike
It was a long road but the rewards in learning and riding have been great. I have to say without Motor Head this bike would probably have carbs on it right now. Let me say the prior owner had really given up on ever getting this going again, it is remarkable that apparently the bike has turned a corner for now. I am open to the possibility of the 'rough running' symptoms returning but right now it is running incredibly well.

Thanks for the pointer to the fuel regulator -- that sounds like a good feature to be adjustable and will check it out if my regulator gets ornery.

I was planning to get the injectors cleaned but this bike is close to pulling up the front end on a hand full of throttle so for now I'm going to ride it. However I will check the hoses which is something I have not done. Most of the turnaround effort on this bike has been electrical in nature.

well i packed the ecu, fuel pump, and throttle sensor off to redline for testing and i have an airbox with the airflow meter coming from a seller on egay. looks like i'm committed (or should be to the nut hut) to sticking with the efi system. any recommendations on a gel/sealed battery size for this bike? or a decent asylum?

You'll get it running great with the EFI. Just don't neglect your Injectors.
As far as batteries go, if you want AGM, just cross the stock size, what 18LA to a decent brand. Cost will be more, as a Wet Acid is under 70 with freight. i have a local battery shop that sells a Wet for under $60 with a 1 year replacement warranty.

well got the call from redline...everything i had is toast. i screwed up and bought an airflow meter/airbox before learning all the other parts were bad. i'll be selling that for what i have in it, $200 for the airmeter and $60 for the airbox.

looks like the mikuni smoothbores win.
any recommendations on jetting? i'm gonna try to use an airbox and keep the stock pipes.

That is not what I would have expected, but then those are some old parts.
Sorry but I thought it would have been easier to get the stock EFI going.
Hope you have good luck with getting it going on the Carb setup.

Sorry to hear that. Did the same thing here. Do you have a "list" of conversion parts to swap to carbs?
Later,
Kenny

Any help is appreciated.