Need help from the carb gods..

If you are now the manager at a Dunkin Doughnut shop aren't you going to miss all your cop buddies when you take this new job?

violentvintagecycles wrote: Sorry about that, this is my nightmare bike right now, 89 suzuki katana 750.

Attachment katknview.jpg not found

I know the katana has cv carbs, wasnt sure about the kz, there def tk22's, not cv. Reason i asked about that is alot of people telling telling me you cant use pods on a cv carb and i say hogwash. :pinch:

However, i am going to check to see if anything gets blocked by them, as roundporch suggested..
I cant see all the other posts or id quote the guy who said to go back to original settings:

Most is all stock settings, except jet kit, which is at the leanest setting, mains at 130 which im gonna drop, and the fuel screws. Gonna work on that, but not for a couple days.
Start a new job tonight, going from a manager of a dunkin donut to a dump driver. :silly:
Im terrified, almost 40 yrs old..:blush:

Those carbs are the old GSXR "Slingshot" Mikuni flat slide CV carbs. Excellent carbs ! I can tell you from experience those carbs are VERY difficult to jet with pods (even worse than standard CV roundslides). Do you have the stock airbox ? If not FIND ONE ! If you are running E10 ethanol fuel, slightly richen the stock jetting, and you will be amazed at how well that bike will run ! As always....pods SUCK IMO !

Those carbs are the old GSXR "Slingshot" Mikuni flat slide CV carbs. Excellent carbs ! I can tell you from experience those carbs are VERY difficult to jet with pods (even worse than standard CV roundslides). Do you have the stock airbox ? If not FIND ONE ! If you are running E10 ethanol fuel, slightly richen the stock jetting, and you will be amazed at how well that bike will run ! As always....pods SUCK IMO ! [/quote]

I get that alot Its its just VERY difficult, im up to the challenge.. Sometimes i wanna kick it over, but... I didnt go out to find a katana, imho its kinda ugly, i use these bikes to learn, teach myself over again (or u guys are the teachers).. I will keep screwing with it, as long as it costs under 20 bucks!
By the way, ur the first one to mention that these carbs are the gsxr slingshots. I know the katana is a tuned down version of a gsxr, so it makes sense..I remember as a kid reading about the slingshots and aweing at the bikes i couldnt afford. gsxr was one of them. Do you know where i can get a set of slides? (over 20$ i know ) I could look at an 89 gsxr for carb parts?


And to GRINGO; I got a wallet full of pba cards for that job. No lie. I AM gonna miss that..

WIREMAN- First night, didnt look in the bed of the dump, had asphalt caked on over a 3 day hurricane down time, State guy wouldnt let me pick up until it was cleaned out. 2 hours with a broken shovel later...lol (im paving)..

First off... clean and oil those k&n pods immediately before you try to do anything else.

Take the carbs out and raise the fuel height 1mm above the spec limit.
Raise the needle 1 notch if possible, or i believe .5mm washer will do.
Make certain to do a very good carb bench sync with a drill bit or the like. CV carbs need to be properly vacuum balanced with everything perfectly air tight, or they will run like crap, and you'll know it! :laugh:

Adjust the mixture screws to 2 turns out to start.

Mains are a wild guess, but I would start at least 3 sizes larger and begin tuning from there. Might want to put some hex bolts in on the bowls and use only 2 instaed of all four screws per, to make for faster main jet changes while on the bike.

Good luck!

TeK9iNe wrote: First off... clean and oil those k&n pods immediately before you try to do anything else.

Take the carbs out and raise the fuel height 1mm above the spec limit.
Raise the needle 1 notch if possible, or i believe .5mm washer will do.
Make certain to do a very good carb bench sync with a drill bit or the like. CV carbs need to be properly vacuum balanced with everything perfectly air tight, or they will run like crap, and you'll know it! :laugh:

Adjust the mixture screws to 2 turns out to start.

Mains are a wild guess, but I would start at least 3 sizes larger and begin tuning from there. Might want to put some hex bolts in on the bowls and use only 2 instaed of all four screws per, to make for faster main jet changes while on the bike.

Good luck!

That sounds like sound advice that ill be doin over the next couple days! 4 days off woo hoo! :silly:

Think I went too high on the mains, im gonna try dropping from 130s to 122. NOTE, on my KZ550, i habe it jetted with 120s, and it kinda sucks air at full throttle, falls flat. I should go up with that right?
Love the 2 carb bowl screw idea.. Wont leak?

Usually when your mains are too lean you will feel a slight "bucking" at high rpm's (almost will feel like an ignition misfire.

When you are jetted too rich, then engine will struggle to reach max rpm's and feel flat.

With a KZ550 motor and stock exhaust, I'm surprised that your motor runs with 120 mains.

On my GPZ with Kerker and pods I'm using 103 mains. But I also am running a Dynojet needle raised, and larger pilots.

Polar_Bus wrote: Usually when your mains are too lean you will feel a slight "bucking" at high rpm's (almost will feel like an ignition misfire.

When you are jetted too rich, then engine will struggle to reach max rpm's and feel flat.

Doesnt buck, falls flat.. Will try lowering mains.. Thanks.


"With a KZ550 motor and stock exhaust, I'm surprised that your motor runs with 120 mains"

Runs great except for top end, only other problem is she WONT start under 50 degrees. Likes to be ridden hard and sleep late.. :kiss:
I know its probably the valves, but shims are beyond my expertise.. So i take my fiances truck when its cold.. lol

Valve clearance will actually increase with cold. It's probably the choke setup. Make sure all of the flaps are there (you can pull the chokes out without removing the carbs in case you have the airbox on).

Check out my tk-22 site about inspecting the choke flap hinge pins. But be careful, if they are loose, they can fall out when you pull the choke plate out of the carbs, if you tip the plate the wrong way.

The link is in my signature.

loudhvx wrote: Valve clearance will actually increase with cold. It's probably the choke setup. Make sure all of the flaps are there (you can pull the chokes out without removing the carbs in case you have the airbox on).

Check out my tk-22 site about inspecting the choke flap hinge pins. But be careful, if they are loose, they can fall out when you pull the choke plate out of the carbs, if you tip the plate the wrong way.

The link is in my signature.

Holy cow that was a heck of a tutorial! Gotta admit, ive never taken that apart to that measure where ive ever seen those choke flaps.. Learn somethin new every day..

Yeah, there's a few other good pages in there on how to get that cold start issue straightened out.

If you are still running pods, you can just yank the pods off to check that the flaps are still there. If you close the chokes all the way, in the upper right corner as you look into the intake, you'll see the flap pins, that is, if they have walked out. You can see them in some of the photos on that page. If you can see the pin, then it has walked out. It won't be able to fall out as long as the choke plate stays in the carb.

If the flaps are there, and the pins are not visible, then all is likely good with the flaps.




The only other thing to do is make the fast-idle screw adjustable so you can get a good idle while cold when the choke is on.

home.comcast.net/~loudgpz/GPZweb/TK22mai...astIdleScrewMod.html

OK! Finally got this Katana running right, still needs some tweaking, went down to 120's, now she pulls up to about 11k before she starts to sputter. Gonna go to 117,5, think that should be it. BUT now i have a new issue.. Starts fine in the morning, night, as long as its been sitting for awhile, but ill go 3 or 4 miles for a pack of smokes, stop, shut it off, and it wont freakin start again.. I know this topic beens covered, i looked thru the forums, cant seem to find the solution to that.. Just rebuilt petcock diaghram, maybe 3 weeks ago, was working fine, now its back to only working on res or pri.. wth?