KZ1000 popps... ALOT

pilot circuit screws are set out to 1 and a half turns. i tried to adjust them to richen the mixture and the bike ran like poo.. i want maximum awesomeness as far as power goes and if 1 and a half is where it runs best then im gonna leave them there. Im gonna try the lighter thing tomorrow. to late and the bikes too damn hot to test that right now. I dont wanna get my hands anywhere near that thing.. just went for a ride
I did pull on the headers a few days and a few rides after installation. None of them moved at all.

i looked at the manual and it said if you move the clip on the needle in the diaphragm it can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and maybe even lead to an accident!?

Kitten Tooth wrote: i looked at the manual and it said if you move the clip on the needle in the diaphragm it can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and maybe even lead to an accident!?

This is a "corperate liability scare tatic". Pay no attention. The needle grooves are simply to fine tune the air/fuel mixture of the midrange circut.

Tim, you mentioned valve clearance is loose so you truly need get this corrected first....

Here's some other info related to the Keihin CR's but the theory applies just the same...

yea, its too lean but its got ungodly amounts of power, i think im gonna experiment with my main jets for a while. The loose valves will be fixed shortly here. gotta save up 50 bucks for the job, already got the gasket and cam end caps. The guy thats gonna do is actually gonna let me watch so ill know how to do it myself next time. I dont know how to do the shim type ones. i do know how to do the ones with the locknut and adjusting screw though.

Hey guys, about 3 hours ago i synchronized my carburetors. cylinder 1 was way off from the others. cylinders 3 and 4 were just about level when we started and cylinder 2 was in between cylinder 1 and 3. My dad figured out how to do this job about a week ago so he showed me how to do it. My bike seems to have even more balls then it did before:D very happy with the outcome. would synching the carbs possibly make the lean problem better? it still pops alot on decel. but it doesnt seem as bad... Or it could be stupidity mixed with hope:)

P.S. i think my neighbors hate me.. this bike aint quiet.

Kitten Tooth wrote: ...pops alot on decel....

Could experiment by enriching the pilot circuits by 1/2 turn of each pilot adjustment screw.

If side-located air screw, turn it in clockwise to reduce air and thereby enrichen.

If bottom-located mixture screw, turn it out counter-clockwise to increase mixture and thereby enrichen.

Good Fortune!

i already tried to adjust them and the bike runs like poo, my mechanic told me to do that and see if the popping went away

What carbs are fitted to the bike in question?
Manual slide? Air or mixture screw?
CV?

If turning adjustment screw fails to effect a noticeable rpm change, it often indicates a dirty pilot circuit.

Good Fortune!

i think it has BS36s. they're stock carbs off of a 1981 KZ1000 Police bike i think. my uncle got them for me as a gift since the bike came with 82' KZ1100 carbs. It never would have ran if my uncle wouldn't have hooked me up with these carbs. There is definitely a change in RPM when you mess with the screws. i cant remember which way i turned them but it was a half turn toward richening the mixture. the bike just ran weird afterwards. Really soft on acceleration, way less power. so i put them back.

OK. Ehem. So wahts going on here is that you have too much air entering one or more of your cylinders - thus, the popping exhaust.

The mixture screws are meant to be tuned individually - not all turned to a magical "X" number of turns out. Each carb is a separate fuel delivery system for its own powerplant. Your trying to make each delivery unit and powerplant work in unison as closely as possible.

So... with that said, the vacuum balance that you performed is ABSOLUTELY INCORRECT.

With an imbalance in one or more of the carbs (like an air leak), the vacuum is DRASTICALLY EFFECTED. It makes a proper vacuum balance impossible (literally IMPOSSIBLE), and only creates more problems.

The only way your going to solve this, is to start from the begining and do things correctly.

Take those damn carbs off the bike boy. Those BS34/36s' are super easy to remove, it takes like 30 seconds.

Take off the bowls. Pull the little plug covering the pilots, then remove the pilots with a long narrow flathead.

Now: WD40 spray can w/ the straw. Cut one end of the straw at a 45. Stick the straw on the can, then shove the other end up inside the pilot hole.
Look into the bore of the carb while holding the throttle open. SPRAY. it should shoot out of all of the (3) tiny holes at the top of the carb throat, pretty much all teh same flow. Make sure that all 4 carbs spray identically. - You may need to rotate teh straw to find the best pressure.

Spray through all the jets with the straw and make sure they flow the same.
Make sure all your float heights are the same.

If all four carbs flow through all the holes the same, great! Perform a bench sync! Do it with a drill bit and use it like a feeler guage, making sure all the throttle butterflies are the same amount open.

If not - you will need to remove every rubber bit in the carbs, including the slides and the choke plungers (this means complete dissasembly) as a strong carb cleaner is going to be neede and it will eat everything rubber.


NOW:
Before reinstalling the carbs - Remove, clean and reinstall the carb boots to the engine with a good sealer on them - Like Permatex Motoseal (grey tube - resists gas).

Install the carbs into the engine side first - make sure they seat deep, right in till they thump in. Tighten them down good. If teh clamps tighten all the way and there is movement, then those clamps are too large now, and you will have to get some slightly smaller pipe clamps at the hardware store.

Install the airbox boots nice and tight as well, with proper spring retainers/clamps. use a little grease smeared around inside the boot openings to make things seal up and seat easy. Install that airfilter and make sure it is seated air tight as well.

Set the screws at your magical 1.5 turns from completely seated and begin.

Maybe I missed something... im tired. FIRE UP THE BIKE.
DONT PERFORM A VAC SYNC UNTIL YOU HAVE SOLVED THE POPPING ISSUE.

If it still pops: recreate the popping issue on the stand by revving it up and chopping the throttle. Now turn a mixture screw out a full turn JUST ONE - then rev. still popping... next carb. repeat the process until the popping ceases to exist. get all four carbs a full turn more out - 1,2,3,4, then back to 1, another turn out. Your not going to leave them like this, just for testing to find the problem.

DO IT, DOOOOOO IT!

Good luck.