1980 KZ1000G need help!

I'm not sure if I'm in the right section for this, but I need help with a 1980 KZ1000G fuel injection system. I just picked up the bike this past weekend, it had been sitting since 1999 or 2000 in a big garage with about half a tank of fuel. I pulled the tank and drained it but the fuel lines, filter, pump, etc., have a thick varnish that I've been cleaning piece by piece. I took the fuel pump apart and cleaned it thoroughly, it now works, but when I test the pump it doesn't pump fuel out, it fills with fuel but doesn't squirt it out the outlet.I'm not sure if it can be tested outside the system like I'm doing or not.
With the amount of varnish that was in the system, is there anything I should or shouldn't do? How should I clean the injectors, or should I clean everything else and then just run good fuel through the system and injectors?

Thanks,

Dirk

When working properly, the pump will put out 33 PSI at Idle, going up to 35 PSI when the throttle is open.

Some information:
1980 FI “G” model Kawasaki information

Actually, the manual(s) you need are the following:

KZ1000 Motorcycle Service Manual: Kawasaki part number 99924-1006-05

and

KZ1000 Classic Motorcycle Service Manual Supplement: Kawasaki part number 99963-0035-01

The KZ1000/KZ1100 manual you downloaded is for the J-series 998cc motored bikes. Your Classic is a pre-J bike and is based on the earlier 1015cc bikes. The base manual is the first of the two I listed above and while it does have the information for the related 'H' model (aka the FI model released in Europe), the strictly North American model (the 'G' model, aka the Z1 Classic)) is not covered. Information specific to that model is contained in the second listed manual.



KZ1000 G Model First Generation FI

So for anyone else with this one-year-only Kz1000 "Z1 Classic", here are a few ways to find this switch:

1) 1979 Datsun 280zx "Throttle Valve Switch"

2) 1980 Datsun 200sx, find it at
Remartautoparts.com, with Remart part # TH114

3) "BECK ARNLEY 158-0492 Fuel Injector Throttle Switch" (NOTE: the 158-0492 is a 'master' part number apparently that most Auto parts stores can use to find all the vendors of this switch)

4) 1986 Nissan 300ZX Turbo "Throttle Position Sensor",
the part is mfg. by 'Nile'

And www.redlinecycle.com has some used "G" parts, so visit their website.

Manuals
www.repairmanual.com (They sell used manuals now and then)
www.manualsnmore.com
www.midwestmanuals.com/
www.books4cars.com/
www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/
moto-manuals.com/

Thanks for the info, I still don't understand if the pump will work when I take it out of the bike and connect it to power or if it needs to be in the bike to work. If you know please let me know. If I do need a new pump does anybody know what pump will work?

Thanks,
Dirk

Fuel Pumps & Regulators
www.fuel-pumps.net/gsl393.html
www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/FuelPumps.asp


This particular pump uses gasoline as a lubricant, and is designed to be installed outside the gas tank. If possible DO NOT RUN without gas going to the pump. Rig up a test stand with a gas supply,pressure regulator and a pressure gauge rated to at least 35 PSI.

If the pump is any good, it can go up to 70-80 PSI unregulated.

Now I get it, I didn't have all the parts l needed in the test.

Thanks,
Dirk

Okay I set everything up this weekend and tested the fuel system all the electronic seem to work but the pump is not building any pressure. Looks like I'm in the market for a new fuel pump.

Here are some pictures of the fuel system:

Thanks for the help,
Dirk

One of the major problems with E-Bay, is you may buy a pump that's worse off than what you've got now.If it were me, I'd go to those websites I posted and see what they've got for pumps.

I'm going to order the:
GSL393 In-Line Pump; Walbro GSL-393 Fuel Pump produces 155 liters per hour (LPH) at 43.5 psi.

This pump should work even though the psi is a little higher right?

Thanks,
Dirk

If you've not re-adjusted the fuel pressure regulator, it should lower the fuel pressure from the pump to 33-35 PSI, if not, the possibilty of blown/exploded fuel lines is there.

As I previously posted,the stock fuel pump could go as high as 70 PSI, but the regulator will lower it to a lower level.

While you've got it apart, check the high and low fuel lines for signs of cracking as the gas/alcohol mix is tough on rubber bits.

The low pressure ones will be anything from the petcock through the filter, and high pressure ones will be anything after the pump,including the supply lines to the injectors,to the fuel pressure regulator and from it to the one way valve in the bottom right side of the gas tank.

Also check the amps needed to run the new pump. Kawasaki designed the original fuel pump to run at low amps, your new one may need a relay to handle the current demand. I'd think a 30-40 amp relay will be more than enough.

kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/426171-19...t=20&start=20#426800
Can look at some prior threads such as this, same bike. He had a lot of issues but last I heard it was running great.