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High Revving GPz750?
- TeK9iNe
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- What did you do!?!
Making several massive changes could have you running around in circles before you know it. :blink:
VALVE CLEARANCES must be within spec, and better if thier close to eachother.
Try setting the fuel level in the carbs first, it takes the most patience. Get them all in spec. Hi or low spec dont matter much, all the same height is most important.
If you have stock airbox and filter/exhaust, then the stock jetting will work perfectly. There is another issue.
The springs that go on the airbox to carb boots are ABSOLUTELY necessary to attain proper input volumes for CV carb venturis'. With frame movement and time and vibration, these will allow air seepage at different intervals creating all sorts of mysterious problems, TRUST ME. they are there for good reason.
To test your current state of sync: get the engine idling off choke.
Drop the idle via the main idle control knob down to where the bike is practically stalling, then leave it there a couple minutes. If your sync is bad, one or more of your header pipes will go cool, as those cylinders will not be reqieving enough charge from the carbs to continue firing correctly.
If this is the case, then a sync is necessary, and the carbs will not function better than 75% efficency below max advance, until a proper vacuum sync is performed.
Hanging idle is 90% air leak, 8% advancer unit not properly maintained, 1% sync, 1% wierd shite. But all need to be attended to.
Sorry for the novel. :laugh:
Patton is the PhotoChopKing! :lol:
GL!
Motorcycle Shop Owner/Operator
79 Kawie Z1000 LTD
81 Kawie Z1000 CSR
83 Honda VT750C A
85 Kawie GPZ900 A2
86 Zukie GS1150 EG
93 Yamie XV1100 E
Lucky to have rolled many old bikes through my doors
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- nicksorg
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All of my butterflies on the Mikuni BS34s are set a little open at rest. Is this correct? I ask because if I set the main idle aduster in the middle of the threads, it doesn't touch the the piece that the thottle cable connects to. Hope that makes sense.
Nick
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- nicksorg
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All my exhaust valves are within spec. Intake #2,3,4 are off. Should I shim all of the valves to a common value of say .10mm ?
Thanks
Nick
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- nicksorg
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- Valves are all within spec
- Compression tests all within spec.
- Electrical/coils check out.
- Carb holders are sealed
- Carbs are fully seated.
- stock airbox with airbox holders fully sealed.
- vac lines are all connected.
- mixture screws are 2 turns out from seated per manual.
I'm running out of things to try. help.
Nick
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- nicksorg
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1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- Patton
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Is all the EPA stuff shown in the upper part of photo still fitted?
If so, there may be an air leak.
Would disable the EPA stuff by connecting a tube between the valve cover intakes and plugging all vac nipples (except vac nipple serving petcock).
Plug or tape over now unused hole in airbox.
If bike idles properly, shelve the EPA stuff.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- kzr750r1
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This would require new pod filters, some jets, vacuum nipples.
Nice to see another 82 Gpz getting back on the road. Main thing is don't rush and it will come together. I understand you may be chasing what's left of your riding season on the east coast but I too have been in this chase and lost many times.
Good luck.
KZ750R1 + 1991 ZR750 = KZR750R1
Better to be shot out of a cannon then squeezed through a tube. - HST
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- nicksorg
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I started her today on choke. She fired right up and dropped to normal idle when I took the choke off. I had it idling for a few minutes. When I blipped the throttle, it would come back, although with a little hesitation. The air filter on this bike hasn't been right from day 1 so I ordered one for it. My plan today is to take care of the starter clutch. I'm also going to check the carbs one more time and maybe replace the pilot jets and seal up the caps on them a little better. I also have new needles left from the rebuild kit that I'll drop in. Once I fix the starter clutch, I'll drop the new air fileter in and see if anything has changed. Then I'll try your EPA suggestions.
Thanks
Nick
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- kzr750r1
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What other needles do you have?
At this point it sounds like you may be getting there with the air leaks. But without seeing these carb boots hard to say how long they will last. At least they had the stock parts helping them support the carbs.
KZ750R1 + 1991 ZR750 = KZR750R1
Better to be shot out of a cannon then squeezed through a tube. - HST
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- nicksorg
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You're advice about multiple changes is a sound one. A this point I'm going to wait and see if the correct air filter makes any difference. If not, I'll consider next steps, including replacing the airbox holders and adding the springs that hold them onto the rear of the carbs.
Thanks
Nick
1982 Kawasaki KZ1000-K2
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- Polar_Bus
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Thanks. You're right about the riding season. oh well.
I started her today on choke. She fired right up and dropped to normal idle when I took the choke off. Nick
Again, this is a tell tale sign you have a very lean running condition. The raw fuel supplied by the choke circut is temporary "Band-Aid" rich condition which is allowing the engine to idle correctly for a short period of time. Is the carbs' mixture screws "de-plugged" and clear of debris ?
Bikes:
'84 GPz1100
'06 HD Fatboy
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- mtkawboy
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78-KZ1000/1105, 80 KZ1000, 82 Kawasaki GPZ750, 95 Harley Fatboy, 80 Suzuki GS1100ET, 81 GS1100E parts bike, 83 GS1100SD Katana/1394,78 Yamaha XT500, 81 Yamaha XS650, 78 Yamaha XS650E, 48 Whizzer model J motorbike, 71 Honda CT70H, 71 Honda CT70, 81 IT 250 Yamaha,82 Honda XL100S owned
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