Whont run without airbox ??

So got it running today 82 kz1000 with haywired fuel supply ran but had to use throttle to keep it running..so is it true it whont run worth crap unless fully hooked back up to air box.cant really get it to idle down past about 2000 or it stalls...Ideas.

The carburetor has several fuel "circuits" that in stock setup, rely on the pressure and flow control of the stock air filter and box.

The air box itself and the snorkel piece that attaches to it are specifically (acoustically) designed to aid in smooth performance in the lower rpms. Much like how a speaker box is engineered.

You ALWAYS need proper filtration, and everything must be completely air tight, from intake to exhaust tip.

GL!

So if you run pods would you need to re tune and what would be the procedure.

My KZ750-4 ran fine when I switched to pods after I rejetted the carbs. Pods cause the carbs to run lean and you have to jet up (up 2 sizes is a good starting point) to get things right again. haven't had any problems since then, but you do hear both good and horror stories about it.

They will barely run with stock jetting & no air box

thx could be my problem working on getting the airbox back in just have to soften u the carb boots.

Take the bolts out of the battery box, it will give you a little extra badly needed room. You might try a hair dryer on them

stock jetted CV type carbs need to sense a vacume signal generated from a stock airbox to run correctly. Not just KZ, but most all bikes. My GS1100 behave exactly the same, no airbox, no run... airbox installed and the bike ran great.

Well poped the airbox back on and it started without having to use the eather spray.... still runs rough but at least it starts and runs So just have the temp fuel supply hooked up and all four vac lines on the carbs plugged off could this be the reason why its running rough.

My '82 KZ650 uses Mikuni BS32 carbs, which are the CV type. The bike got great gas mileage and ran smoothly, but was not obtaining its potential power.

With stock jets and stock jet needle settings, I tried taking off the top collar from the air box and removing the filter. The bike ran terrible !!! From about 1/8 throttle on up, it had little power, and stumbled badly.

Next, I increased the Main jets by 2 sizes, and raised the jet needles by 4 mm. Again, I removed the top collar from the air box. It ran slightly better than before, but still very poor.

Then I installed an air filter (used for 10,000 miles), and the stock top air box collar. The motorcycle would pull your arms off - really ran great - smooth and powerful. Then I put a new air filter in, and the bike did not run quite as well. Polar_Bus was right about the CV carbs being dependent upon a slight vacuum or restriction from the air box to get top performance.

I just wish I understood why this seems to be the case.

The airbox has a oval opening on the top that looks like it is open under the seat is this supposed to be open or is ther a cover could that be my problem.

Looks like you're missing the "air duct" (see 14073A in parts diagram).