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Carb and Air cleaner.
- TexasKZ
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It will also help you in the future if you can get some definitive info from the previous owner about modifications to the bike. I've not heard of a 750 being expanded to 1000cc.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- BoredKZ750
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- H1Vindicator
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- BoredKZ750
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- TexasKZ
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It dumps fuel when its turned all the way on. whats the difference between the prime and all the way on? when its on prime it doesnt dump as much. and when its off it doesnt leak at all.
If it is a vacuum operated petcock, it will have the following three positions-
RES (reserve)
ON
PRI (prime)
With the engine off (no vacuum) fuel should flow ONLY from the PRI position.
Non-vacuum petcocks will generally have the following positions-
OFF
ON
RES
Fuel should flow equally from ON and RES all the time (unless the fuel level is really low), engine on or off. Fuel should not flow from the OFF position ever.
1982 KZ1000 LTD parts donor
1981 KZ1000 LTD awaiting resurrection
2000 ZRX1100 not ridden enough
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- BoredKZ750
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- Patton
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Whats the best way to remove the carbs and clean them? do i have to take off the airbox to remove them?
Usually not necessary to remove airbox.
Biggest pita is generally old hard airbox hoses making it difficult to pull the carbs back and out of the carb holders. Same issue when reinstalling carbs and fitting the airbox hoses onto the carb intakes.
May help to use a hair dryer or heat gun to temporarily soften the airbox hoses, during both removal and reinstallation of carbs.
It's almost hopeless attempting to soak the airbox hoses in some product to supposedly soften or renovate them. But there's one report about mixing xylene and wintergreen, or something like that.
Imo, the best solution is obtaining brand new airbox hoses from Z1 Enterprises.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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