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Equalizer line instead of syncing carbs
- 1981jmotor
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- shade tree mechanic
I may eventually fully implement this idea, but not now. I do not want to butcher my intake tubes. But, what is great about this forum is that there may be a tinkerer out there with a shop, and some parts laying around who might see the value in this "equalizer" idea. I personally think it would be almost like having one carb. Mano-syncing is important, but from what I understand, KZ carbs with enrichment shafts DO NOT warm up smoothly, and this might help.:S
I agree with that an equalizer might be a good idea AFTER syncing. In response to the other post, I do not think that vacuum nipples would be of sufficient size to make a difference.
1981 Kawasaki CSR 1000
First bike ever at 14 years old was 1969 Honda CL 175.
Bought a brand new Honda CM400T at 16 years old in 1979.
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- baldy110
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- otakar
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Last post. IM-OTTO-HERE. :silly:
74 Z1-A stock
76 KZ-900 Totaly stock vice MAC pipe
77 KZ-1000A stock
78 Z1-R 100%MINT 500 original Mi.
78 Z1-R Yoshi 1103 kit stage 1 cams Yoshi pipe. Etc
79 KZ-1300 (1400)
80 KZ-1300
81 Scratch built GPz1150R
82 KZ1000
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- 1981jmotor
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I guess our own ideas are like out little babies. We think they are the greatest. Outta here, David
1981 Kawasaki CSR 1000
First bike ever at 14 years old was 1969 Honda CL 175.
Bought a brand new Honda CM400T at 16 years old in 1979.
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- gane
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[img][/img] 1977 KZ1000A1
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- 1981jmotor
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Sometimes after my bike sits, it will lose one or two cyls at idle. Maybe some of the needles are leaking, and flooding the float bowl. I have never used a manometer. It seems to me that a manometer may not indicate a fuel problem- is the vacuum the same whether the cyl is firing or not? :X
1981 Kawasaki CSR 1000
First bike ever at 14 years old was 1969 Honda CL 175.
Bought a brand new Honda CM400T at 16 years old in 1979.
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- polkat
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- loudhvx
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If you run a tube from each manifold to a central chamber so each intake has equal access to the chamber, it still won't work since the differenctial from one cylinder's carb, relative to the average vacuum in the chamber, will be different for each cylinder. Each cylinder then gets a different amount of charge.
Obviously both options will work if the carbs are all in sync, but then you don't need the contraption at all.
The only way it would work is if the 4 carbs feed into a large box, then the large box is connected to the cylinders. But you'd never do this because then you could just use one big carb to feed the box... much simpler.
If there was a way to eliminate the need to sync the carbs for $2 worth of vacuum hose and some cheap Tee's, wouldn't Kawasaki have done it? That would have saved hours of factory setup.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- loudhvx
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Well, I for one am confused. I thought the whole idea of syncing the carbs with a manometer was so they DO have equal vacuum at idle! I still think this true, as the actual adjustment only effects the butterflys. It's necessary because of minor differences in how each carb is set up (miniscule differences in slider heights, response to jets, linkage tolerances, air flow in particular, etc.). If true, a common equalizing tube as suggested, would cause some carbs to steal from each other, and you'd end up with mixture feed differences (if only slight) in different cylinders. I can't see any advantage to the proposed idea.
Correct about it not working.
You don't really care about the actual vacuum to the cylinders. The point is to get each cylinder to do equal work in turning the crank to get a smooth idle.
You only use the vacuum as an indicator. This is based on the assumption that each cylinder is in the same state of wear... a faulty assumption unless you check with a compression test. In fact, if the cylinders are worn differently, you want the vacuum to actually be different. A cylinder with lower compression should show lower vacuum, but by how much is hard to predict.
Another way to sync is to setup the carbs to a 4-1 manifold and hook it up to an external vacuum source. Then at least you know each carb is open the same amount... something a manometer on the engine does not guarantee. But that still does not mean each cylinder gets the same charge. A weaker cylinder will get less charge in this method.
The truest test is to use an oscilloscope and look at the alternator pulse widths relative to the firing of each cylinder. This will tell you crank speed for each firing of a cylinder. You adjust the carbs so each firing results in the same crank acceleration.
You will need a battery to run the bike and disconnect the stator so you can measure it with no load so the puls's width is not altered by load. Then you have to sync the scope to each coil seperately to compare stator pulse widths. Because each coil fires two cylinders, you will have to do trial and error to figure which cyclinder is which in the pair.
That's a whole lot of work, but not impossible.
By the way, no, I do not try to do all that, I just slap on a manometer.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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