Dropping stock air box

Update

I have decided to keep the stock air box and am currently looking for a cone filter that will fit the back of the box with the silencer removed. The lines going into the silencer are just vents.

I am going to try out a 112.5 main because after running the bike with the straight pipe and no silencer it is running really lean (plugs are white and low end is really choppy).

Bike sounds awesome without the baffle though, thats a plus

likes2gofast2009 wrote:

Update
I have decided to keep the stock air box and am currently looking for a cone filter that will fit the back of the box with the silencer removed. The lines going into the silencer are just vents....

cone filter that will fit the back of the box with the silencer removed --- does this mean attaching a filter to rear of airbox after removing the silencer, which would be adding another filter in addition to the regular filter inside the airbox?

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enhance view.]

Patton wrote:

likes2gofast2009 wrote:

Update
I have decided to keep the stock air box and am currently looking for a cone filter that will fit the back of the box with the silencer removed. The lines going into the silencer are just vents....

cone filter that will fit the back of the box with the silencer removed --- does this mean attaching a filter to rear of airbox after removing the silencer, which would be adding another filter in addition to the regular filter inside the airbox?

Good Fortune!

[Click on image to enhance view.]

I wouldn't leave the filter in the box... It's just cheaper to buy a cone filter than the stock one from a dealership.

Am unaware of cost from dealer, but Z1E seems reasonable, and also carries K&N.

Click > Z1E oem style

Click > Z1E K&N

Good Fortune!

I have the pods on mine and in anything more than a light rain it is best left in the garage. I've been caught in heavy rain a couple of times and it is almost impossible to ride. I'm actually thinking of getting a second bike to ride during the rainy season

Inside the airbox you will find 2 screens that cover the intake horns that lead to the carbs. #8 & 9 in the schematic.

Remove them and go with the single K&N filter on the air box opening in the rear. Yank the stock filter and put the cover back on the top of the box.

You can get a huge variety of K&N filters. Certainly there's one that will fit your specific application.

I'm not against pods or pipes but here is a Q&A from Cycle Guide that says a lot! (click to enlarge)

I went with this K&N filter www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1492 on my 1075cc and am very happy with it. I never had a "snorkel" on my airbox (some previous owner tossed it) so I don't know how much of a difference that would make. I can't even put the top of the airbox on with the K&N in there, but it looks to seal around the top anyways.

The only part that still sucks is removing the carbs and reinstalling. Hopefully I'm just about done doing that....

Patton- Thanks for the link, the dealer wanted $32 for an oem filter.

Larry- Thanks for the input I may give that a try as well.

Bluemeanie- Having similar problems as the ones stated in the article, thanks for sharing. Bike is really choppy until about 3-3500rpms, but rips like a bat outa hell once up in the higher rpms.

When I pulled the carbs I discovered that the bike already has 115 mains in there, I thought it still had the 102.5 mains that came stock. Since it is running pretty lean I'm going to try out a 125 main and see how they do.

Current mods: Dyna coils, kerker 4-1 with gutted mac pipe, and 115 mains. Again the bike is an '80 KZ1000 LTD B4

Any other tips?

That's a really big jump. I'd buy the 117.5 and 120 also if you are set on going all the way to 125.