Dropping stock air box

Bike is 1980 KZ1000 LTD. Bike is totally stock. This winter I am going with cone filters, 125 main jets and a strait pipe. I am totally new to bikes so bare with me here.

Ok so I am going with cones and getting rid of the stock air box. I got ahold of a valve cover without the emission ports so it will make it easier to drop all the emissions lines.

The only thing I am confused about is what to do about the small lines that go from the top portion of the box (the part that looks like a sphere) to the carbs. Are those some sort of vacuum lines? Where will those lines go once I remove the air box?

gofast,
all your carbs but one will be capped where the vacuum lines connect. The one will be vacuum to the petcock. I tried this mod and found that there were some issues with jetting and riding in the rain. My advise is to KEEP the airbox. You may wish to restore the airbox at a future date (as I did) and all you will have to do is get a furniture plug to plug the hole in the top of the airbox.

I believe this is correct , but if it's not, there will be someone to set the record straight.

Good Luck, enjoy, shiny side up.

likes2gofast2009 wrote:

Bike is 1980 KZ1000 LTD. Bike is totally stock. This winter I am going with cone filters, 125 main jets and a strait pipe. I am totally new to bikes so bare with me here.

Ok so I am going with cones and getting rid of the stock air box. I got ahold of a valve cover without the emission ports so it will make it easier to drop all the emissions lines.

The only thing I am confused about is what to do about the small lines that go from the top portion of the box (the part that looks like a sphere) to the carbs. Are those some sort of vacuum lines? Where will those lines go once I remove the air box?

Those are vents I'm sure but check..Start your motor and see if they pull vacuum if they do cap em if not they must be vents. I think the 80 has vm26s so with pods and open pipe your jetting should be 120/20..

Also you could use the early Z1 airbox has its easier the remove for carb removal. or something like this..

chance wrote:

likes2gofast2009 wrote:

Those are vents I'm sure but check..Start your motor and see if they pull vacuum if they do cap em if not they must be vents. I think the 80 has vm26s so with pods and open pipe your jetting should be 120/20..

Alright so does 120/20 mean 120 main and 20 pilots jets?

Yes Sir.Correct

likes2gofast2009 wrote:

Bike is 1980 KZ1000 LTD. Bike is totally stock. This winter I am going with cone filters, 125 main jets and a strait pipe. I am totally new to bikes so bare with me here.

Ok so I am going with cones and getting rid of the stock air box. I got ahold of a valve cover without the emission ports so it will make it easier to drop all the emissions lines.

The only thing I am confused about is what to do about the small lines that go from the top portion of the box (the part that looks like a sphere) to the carbs. Are those some sort of vacuum lines? Where will those lines go once I remove the air box?

Hey Guy,

These bikes are plenty fast. While you're out looking for more horsepower don't dismiss rideability. At the very least don't sell your stock airbox, you may change your mind after you've experienced the joys of carb tuning.

Bill

airbox=

FIRST - There is no vacuum line to the petcock on that model. Those are both fuel hoses on the petcock.

If you remove the clean air system, you need to seal the hole in the airbox where the fresh air hose connected.

If you're going to street ride this bike with stock carbs and a pipe, LEAVE THE AIRBOX ON IT & remove the rear silencer section of the airbox under the seat.

With that removed, you can use an OEM Style replacement air filter or remove that filter and find a K&N filter that will clamp to the airbox where the silencer section mounted.

YOU WILL NOT SEE HUGE PERFORMANCE GAINS FROM REMOVING THE AIRBOX AND REJETTING THE CARBS.

After installing a pipe, you may need to do some jetting. That cannot be determined until the pipe is on the bike and you ride it.

Stock jetting on your bike should be.

102.5 MJ
#15 long pilot
O-1 Needle Jet [the leanest needle jet ever from the factory]
5CN29 needle with a single clip groove.

If you needed to richen the midrange, I would swap the 5CN29 needles for some 5DL31 needles.

While in there you might also jump the main jets to 107.5 then install the carbs and airbox w/o the rear silencer.

Changing jets on the stock carbs with the airbox on is difficult. It's tough getting the carbs in and out. But for the overall, that stock airbox is the best ticket...

JMO

Larry C

The only thing I am confused about is what to do about the small lines that go from the top portion of the box (the part that looks like a sphere) to the carbs. Are those some sort of vacuum lines? Where will those lines go once I remove the air box?
Vents those should go somewhere thats not hot ..those lines will leak out gas if you take a spill so you wouldn't want then to drip on anything hot like exhaust.. Mine go in front the swingarm..
Pics would help greatly..Thanks

how are the boots on the airbox? Are they soft or hard?

The bike is back home so I am unable to get any pics right now or check to see if those lines pull vacuum.

I guess the bike isn't completely stock like I lead on but pretty much it is. All it has done is a 4-1 kerker header with a mac pipe and then dyna coils. I did take the baffle out of the pipe though because I am planning on jetting and a local KZ guy said that it wouldn't run right with the baffle once I jetted it.

I still kinda want to stick with the cones and 120/20. Would that be better since my bike is already piped and what not? Also how big of a risk is it to run cones if I get caught in the rain?

ps. I plan on keeping all of the stock equipment just incase I need to switch everything back over.