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- mookieo2
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I can get the bike to start and run but it takes a little gas sprayed in the carbs to kick over when its cold. After that it will run but it wants to run at 4k rpm. I can not get it to idle. I did once for a little while. Even when the choke is in all the way it will stay at 4k and then go down to about 1500 where I have the idle set up a little higher to keep it running. It shuts off shortly after. When It is warm it does the same thing.
What should I adjust or check first? The air fuel mixture screws on top were set to the factory 1 1/4 turns out.
Is air getting in somewhere? The vacuum lines are connected to the gas tank and the rest are plugged.
Should I try to sync them? It backfires pretty regularly but not loud just slightly out of the carbs.
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- anarki650
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09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- mookieo2
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- anarki650
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09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- mookieo2
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- anarki650
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Also wouldn't be a bad idea to check valve clearances. Out of spec valves can make you think carb problems when you're not actually chasing carb issues...
09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- mookieo2
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I read through a bunch of threads and decided to check the basice. First I disconnected the throttle cable. Bingo it must have been too tight. I can now get it to idle a steady 1500 for now. Its spitting out of carbs 1 and 2.
What should I adjust first? I bought the tubing to make the " Manometer" to sync them. Should I do this first or adjust the mixture screw in the back of the carbs.
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- Patton
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...spitting out of carbs 1 and 2.
What should I adjust first?...
Valve clearances, as suggested by anarki650.
And would check especially for too tight intakes.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- mookieo2
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- roy-b-boy-b
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I would find the area where the clunking is comming from. Use a piece of wood held to your ear and place it in the area where you hear the noise.
Remove the throttle cable completly.
Keep in touch. Roy
1979 LTD Street Fighter.1977 KZ1000
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- MFolks
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If the bike has a standard igition, this is where the points will be.
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- mookieo2
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The mechanical ignition advancer might need some light oil in the pivot areas. It's under a CD sized cover on the right side of the engine. If the bike has electronic ignition, this is where the pick up coils are(Kawasaki calls them pulsing coils).
If the bike has a standard igition, this is where the points will be.
Not sure I understand why this would help? It has electronic ignition.
The clunk just started after it was running for a long time sitting in my driveway. The engine reved hard a few times I`m assuming from the throttle cable sticking. I hope its not too serious. The motor was recently rebuilt before it was put away for 8 years. I`ll try again tomorrow. I may have to post this new problem in another thread in the appropriate section.
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