Drilling out jets

Data not in your profile so you may want to update this sometime (model, year, modifications etc...) . Ok this is a 83 KZ1100

If known, which jets do you presently have installed... Mains, pilots, needles etc... I dont know what gets are installed right now...all i know is the bike is stock.

What settings (number of turns out, float heights etc...) do you have these at now? This is another unknown.

Does the motor smoke, if so which color? Actually it does not smoke, but tips of my headers are black.

Are you hearing pinging sounds when running at idle, mid throttle, WOT...? No

What are the spark plug insulator colors and overall plug condition? black

What are the conditions of your intake manifolds, possible leaks? No

Valve clearances and ignition timing good? I suppose never modified nor touched.

Have you tried a different set of carbies just to see if it makes a difference, maybe the problems elsewhere... Nope, the bike ran fine except bad idle because of sitting for over 13 years, but after some seafoam, she ran pretty good. Then i cut the exhaust and took off the stock air box.


So yeah i really need to know, because i am as lost as i can be. All i know is i cant by another bike until this girl is complete and running like a bat out of hell...

OK, 2 things put a light bulb in my thoughts in reviewing your reply...

"Then i cut the exhaust and took off the stock air box."

In searching the forum, you'll find where in even using a 3rd party exhaust over OEM you'll pretty much find where we all have had to swap some jets and tweak/adjust accordingly. Pretty much goes the same for PODS where tweaking is required.

OK, so all you did was cut the exhaust and install pods, correct.... Nothing else was touched such the carb pilot screws or ignition timing. And we are assuming correctly where the bike ran well pre exhaust and POD work.... This all correct?

Black plugs (assuming sooty not oily) indicates running rich, not lean.

Black exhaust tip, same symptom where rich, not lean/

Based on the JET chart image, as you can see, pilots effect idle to 1/4 throttle. The needle jet is 1/4 to 3/4 and the main jet is 3/4 to wide open throttle...

NOTE: These all over lap and the other conditions such as intake manifolds and proper timing do come into effect as well.

Question, you've already mentioned low to no power at dead stop... What about on the HWY for example doing 50-65mph, run well, run piss poor, no acceleration, misses, lugs/bogs down on acceleration, exhaust popping when decelerating etc...?

And idle at 800-1000rpm is good with timing light?

Are you sure your choke isn't on?... I know, I know but you'd be surprised....

As for the JET's presently installed.... The sizing numbers are usually stamped on the jets themselves...

Before getting carried away with swapping out jets, get out your manual and go through the carb setting adjustments back to OEM setup...

NOTE: Record all pre and post setting changes... Example pilot screw, note how many turns out it is from full in... Any clip position changes etc...

You might just get lucky enough where some carb adjustments will take care of it but to go from running strong to I barely make it through an intersection.... :blink: then again, you never know....

Get it back to OEM specifications with adjustments then go from there...

OMR

Nevermind.

Ok there is a lot of popping when i let of the throttle. It runs piss poor on the hwy, anything above 35 it seems to not enjoy. I would take the throttle off but when I do, she dies and i have even worse acceleration than i did before...so i run her at half choke..i start her on half choke to...it would be very nice if i didn't have to buy anything

Even though he will have to go up about 3-4 jet sizes because of the pods and the pipes, he has other problems besides. The question is, what els has or has not been done to the carbs??????? He MAY also have an ignition problem. I believe that these carbs should be taken off and should be totally gone threw. If it is popping on the de-cell, the idle needles may be clogged or not set right.

Well like he said with those changes that ignition would probably need to be tweaked..but remember the bike wasn't popping before i did the exhuast job and stuff...before I take off my carbs...i want to be sure of what i am getting into.

Step 1: Verify valve clearances.
Step 2: Verify timing.
Step 3: Tune carbs.

You said you have no idea about the valve clearances, so check those. If your tolerances are out of spec you'll have a bitch of a time getting the carbs tuned. Same thing with the timing. If you don't know that it's dead spot on verify it with a strobe. Once you're certain that both of these areas are in spec and properly adjusted move onto the carbs.

With pods and no exhaust (just header) you're flowing a lot more air than stock. Running on stock jetting is going to burn your bike up double quick because it's so lean. Running on half choke isn't the solution here, it only masks some of the symptoms of your lean condition (and causes the black plugs and header tip). I would advise against much riding on stock jetting with pods and header exhaust. You have shit for power because you're not flowing enough fuel, plain and simple. Until you rejet, or drill out your jets, it's going to run like shit. Riding it like this is begging for spun bearings when the motor overheats, which it will.

If all four are firing, I wouldn't suspect the ignition being out of time too bad. These aren't points after all. I would check the plugs and caps. I would also check the idle screws to make sure they are not clogged. Also check the idle jet to make sure they aren't clogged either. The BS34, CV carbs are barely off the pilot jets at highway speed. On my bike my throttle is barely cracked open at 65MPH. I doubt that the vacuum slide has even started to move at that point. Personally I believe that someone who knows what they are doing, should look at those carbs. I would hate to see a good bike get burned up due to carburetor maladjustment. Popping during deceleration is usually either the pilot jet or the idle needle. Also the "jet needles" are set up to run with an air box not with pods. Without proper carburetor modifications, the mid range will ALWAYS be too lean. I am running these same carbs on a stock 998 motor with pods and header, and when I shift from first to second my front wheel comes off the ground. Of course I modified my carburetors properly. Before the modifications I could not get the engine to rev more than 5000 in fifth gear.

Man this forum is great!?! And I want to say thank you for everything that you guys have said.

***but still so does anyone know what jets i need...lolB)

What do your plug chops show?

What jets do you have in there now?

His plugs are reading sooty black because he's running on partial choke to compensate the lean condition, so that's not going to give him what he needs.

I wish I knew the carbs on that bike so I could throw out some numbers to get you close, but all I'm really familiar with are the VM series Mikunis...

I guarantee you there is crap in the float boles and the pilots are clogged. a rough guess on the jet size is about 135 I am running 145s in mine.