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houston, we have a problem!!!!
- arai59
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- keith1
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JB weld is good stuff but it will not hold up to gas for long. It will eventually break down and fail. Sorry.
if i can get the jb to hold for a while, is there another way to make it permanent?...these are only temp carbs..if there isnt a way to help them, i will eat them....i cant fix em half ass and dump em on someone else...that aint right...
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- keith1
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what carbs ?
huh...?....:laugh:
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- KruZer
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I understand...we have to be carefull and do what makes us feel right...and the old adage, "let the buyer beware"...
Buzz
*1977 1000, 1975 KZ998 LSR bike.
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- RonKZ650
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321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
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- BSKZ650
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as far as fleabay, carbs, I have not got what I paid for, one set " fresh off a running bike " umm, hard to run with no floats in them.
but as the man says, it is what it is.
77 kz650, owned for over 25 years
77 ltd1000, current rider
76 kz900, just waiting
73 z1,, gonna restore this one
piglet, leggero harley davidson
SR, Ride captian, S.E.Texas Patriot Guard Riders.. AKA KawaBob
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- Old Man Rock
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I figure it this way... Buy a 30 year old set that are most likely FUBAR or at least have issues such as stripped screws, junked up, missing pieces etc....
If your lucky, get the parts for them plus the re-build kits for each carb and if your lucky get them to start the bike only to find they don't perform for what you had in mind...
For a couple extra hunskies you could have brand spanking new updated technology kick ass carbs.
So with that said and done....
Case in point... BUY NEW CARBS!
OK, beat me with a KZ fork...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- JR
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Like TB33 says - let it cure for AT LEAST 24 hours.
1980 kz750E1, Delkevic exhaust
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- keith1
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Oh I know I'm going to get flamed/pounced on or banned but here goes anyways.... :laugh: :laugh:
I figure it this way... Buy a 30 year old set that are most likely FUBAR or at least have issues such as stripped screws, junked up, missing pieces etc....
If your lucky, get the parts for them plus the re-build kits for each carb and if your lucky get them to start the bike only to find they don't perform for what you had in mind...
For a couple extra hunskies you could have brand spanking new updated technology kick ass carbs.
So with that said and done....
Case in point... BUY NEW CARBS!
OK, beat me with a KZ fork...
OMR
i see your point.....i just figured while i was waiting for mine, i would get a cheap used set and go through them and see how it would end up...i was looking at it as more of a learning experience and yes, i learned stuff...like dont use a mini screwdriver as a drift with a hammer to drive out suck hinge pins...:laugh:
seriously though, i always was kind of hesitant to even open up a carb, but found out they arent
all that complicated....at least these old ones....
j b seems to have worked, so as mine are on w ay back, i ll put these away and mess with them later....all i can say is wg must have been working 20 hours a day to catch up!!!!
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- keith1
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I have used JB Weld to plug a leak at the bottom of a float bowl where it was continuously immersed in gas for two years until I removed it and soldered.
Like TB33 says - let it cure for AT LEAST 24 hours.
thanks....it will have plenty of cure time...i will finish them at a later date......thanks for everyone s input!!!!!
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- Patton
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It Happens
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- keith1
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Here's a link to an earlier KZR thread with more info about successful repair of a broken float bowl pin tower.
It Happens
Good Luck!
thanks...good info.....
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