a little lost

order the air ducts from Z1E. (Patton did the foot work for you. Just click the link on his previous post)

Remove the ducts you rigged up and ensure there is NO silicone in the carb throats or anywhere else.

When the new ducts arrive, replace all 4 and ensure that they are properly fitted to the air box and carbs.

If it idled fine when you got it back then the throttle might be sticking (your makeshift ducts may be interfering with the linkage). While the tank is off, check that the throttle cable and linkage are free and operating properly. There should be a little free play in the throttle cable when the butterfly valves are closed. Make sure this all checks out.

Regarding leaking fuel: Put the tank back on and connect the fuel line. Position the bike on the center stand. Turn the fuel petcock lever to prime (PRI). The lever is located on the bottom of the tank. Let the bike sit for a few minutes and check for leaking fuel. If there is a leak let us know where it is coming from. If there's no leak, don't worry about it for now but definitley keep a close eye on it next time you start it up.

After you do all this, give the bike a whirl and let us know what happens.

Don't forget to turn the petcock lever back to the ON postion after checking for leaks.

zim6000 wrote:

... The real problem is after my 15 minute ride as soon as I got home the bike revved up to about 3 or 4 thousand rpm and holds.

This was the original problem but now its also leaking a whole lot of gas from what looks like the second carb on the left but I cant really see.

This is really frustrating :S any ideas why it idles so high and leaks now?

For consideration from Z1E - - -

carb holders AND vacuum plugs to help avoid air leaks causing high idle. These being a couple of the common sources for air leaks.

inline fuel filter to help avoid foreign matter (such as grit or other crud) in the float needle/seat interface which allows excess fuel into the floatbowl (which then drizzles out the overflows). Imo, a new in-line filter should be installed before allowing any fuel into a freshly cleaned carb.

Good Luck!

As known, even perfect carbs can't compensate for poor ignition or compression. So if not already done, would first assure ignition (timing and spark) and compression (plus correct valve clearances) are up to specs before assigning blame to the carbs for poor performance.

And would suggest checking out wg's website for more info about this, especially the non-carb aspects. wgcarbs

Good Luck!