a little lost

The CV34 carburetors will run perfectly well if rejetted properly to accomodate the pod air filters. Take it to who did the work and have them rejet it. I would advise against the Dynajet kit as they only use one jet needle for any of the various CV34 models and there are two distinct types of CV34... one has a leaner mid-range and more top end jetting and the other is vise-versa. The jet needles they use are not all that good for either application. Genuine Keihin jets should be used.

I just put pods on my 1980 KZ1000E a few weeks ago. I lost power too but I just got the bike back two days ago after having a V&H pipe and carbs rejetted.
Maybe I could have done it myself but I wanted it done quickly and correctly. I'm very pleased. Bike runs great and sounds great.

wiredgeorge wrote:

The CV34 carburetors will run perfectly well if rejetted properly to accomodate the pod air filters. Take it to who did the work and have them rejet it. I would advise against the Dynajet kit as they only use one jet needle for any of the various CV34 models and there are two distinct types of CV34... one has a leaner mid-range and more top end jetting and the other is vise-versa. The jet needles they use are not all that good for either application. Genuine Keihin jets should be used.

Are there any real advantages (performance or otherwise) to pods on a stock engine with stock exhaust? If not, wouldn't it be faster, easier and cheaper to hook up the air box.

Also, IMO you have to be very careful about who is performing the rejet and tune. It might turn out well..might not. Depends on their experience.

I've but the air box back on. 2 inlet ducts went on fine the other two wouldn't I even tryed boiling them, made them more plyable for about 3 seconds then they stiffed up and shrunk back.

I got some exhaust flex pipe from auto zone cut it and squeezed it between the carb and the outside of the air box.

drowned it in silcone and will see what it does tomorrow
the batts charging right now. If this gets it back to normal I'll order a new set of inlet ducts if I can find them

Thanks for all the advice everyone, I'll let you know how it goes.

zim6000 wrote:

drowned it in silcone and will see what it does tomorrow

Just be careful about using silicone around the carb throat openings. There are some very small air jets there and the smallest amount of silicone on them will cause big problems. When you go to put the proper air ducts on, make sure there is NO silicone on or near the carbs!

I've read that the air ducts on stock air boxs act like velcity stacks and boost mid range torque. So even though an engine with pods might make a little more peak HP at 9000rpm, the engine with the air box will make more torque at 4000rpm. For a stock bike (exhaust, cam, carbs, etc)This is exactly what you want on the street. It may actually feel faster with the box...

Get the air inlet ducts.
Sell the pods. JMK.

Best value to word ratio.

davel wrote:

Are there any real advantages (performance or otherwise) to pods on a stock engine with stock exhaust? If not, wouldn't it be faster, easier and cheaper to hook up the air box.

Also, IMO you have to be very careful about who is performing the rejet and tune. It might turn out well..might not. Depends on their experience.[/quote]

If pods are used and the bike is rejetted properly, it will gain power through the rpm range. As far as being careful about who I let rejet my bike, I will keep that in mind.

got it all back together runs great.

just to be clear it never ran great when I bought it about 3 years ago. it would idle way way too high. having the carbs rebuilt fixed it.

I've been on a honda shadow 600 forever and look forward to switching over. Thanks guys.

hey zim6000, glad it all worked out.

wiredgeorge wrote:

Take it to who did the work and have them rejet it.

As far as being careful about who I let rejet my bike, I will keep that in mind.

Just to clarify: zim6000 gave his bike to a shop that put pods on the engine and wasn't aware that it needed rejetting even though the engine had more power BEFORE they did the rebuild and pod install.

Never let that shop touch your carbs or bike again. I strongly suggest finding a new shop with a better reputation. Sometimes this is easier said than done but, zim6000 if you post your location on the forum a member here might be able to recommend a shop near you.

wiredgeorge wrote:

davel wrote:

Are there any real advantages (performance or otherwise) to pods on a stock engine with stock exhaust? If not, wouldn't it be faster, easier and cheaper to hook up the air box.

Also, IMO you have to be very careful about who is performing the rejet and tune. It might turn out well..might not. Depends on their experience.

If pods are used and the bike is rejetted properly, it will gain power through the rpm range. As far as being careful about who I let rejet my bike, I will keep that in mind.[/quote]now thats funny WG :laugh:

If someone is working with a local shop, as a professional, I NEVER give jetting advice. I rejetted about 30 sets of CV34 carbs last year for the same set-up this fella has and know full well that the CV34 carburetors can be rejetted properly. I also believe that if you had a local shop do work for you, your first recourse if the work is unsatisfactory is to go back to them and discuss it with them. I hope all my customers would do this with me if they have any sort of problem. Most folks who buy bikes for the first time and who then come onto this board don't realize that MANY local shops have little actual carburetor experience. They only rebuild a few sets a year and never disassemble and fully clean; only spray some carb cleaner on the carbs and install kits. With little actual carb experience, these same local shops won't understand rejetting issues. Now that isn't all of them... some will do great work, but after hearing a zillion horror stories about carburetor work, this is the only conclusion I can come to.

What you paid for the pods will buy you a fresh set of rubber boots (even the cheap pods!). Now you pretty much know how to set the carbs. No lean air flow or wet problems. Still easy to get the rack in and out of the bike without losing your mind. As for the power increase/decrease if it is true and that is still debatable 90% of the riders will not know the difference. Japs were not stupid and their design/engineering stands up under scrutiny. OH! Here come the Central Scrutinizer references..... "They gave him a donut!.....on the bus? :blink: :huh: :pinch: :pinch: :pinch:

Crap I took it on a test ride yesterday for the first time
since I got it back.

It topped out at a whooping 55 mph but I think thats because I have a few gaps in the boots I rigged up.

The real problem is after my 15 minute ride as soon as
I got home the bike revved up to about 3 or 4 thousand rpm
and holds.

This was the original problem but now its also leaking a whole lot of gas from what looks like the second carb on the left but I cant really see.

This is really frustrating :S any ideas why it idles so high and leaks now?