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Leaky carbs
- rsolano
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1978KZ1000, stock w exception of aftermarket 4 into 1 and air pods
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- anarki650
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09 Kawasaki ER6n
77 kz650b1 cafe rebirth project
"Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube, that's why God made fast motorcycles..."
Dr. Hunter S. Thompson
Omaha NE
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- Patton
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Rapping smartly on float-bowl with plastic mallet while engine is running sometimes corrects the condition.
Good Luck and Welcome to KZrider!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- davenkids2001
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Since then I add a couple ounces every couple of weeks to keep the internals clean and I have had NO problems since.
Try it, it could save you time and money. Although this is no substitute for adjusting your floats if they really need it, it could save time if all you need is a good cleaning.
Just my 1%
-Dave
Dave and Janet
Great Lake State
1979 650SR
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- bountyhunter
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Hi Rudy here new to KZ rider and aquired a 76 KZ900LTD in great shape. When I got it going it runs great but noticed the carbs were leaking alot of gas from the bottom I think its the drain but can't tell and can't ride it because too much gas is leaking out. Has anybody had this same problem and or know what it might be?
I doubt there are many people who have NOT ahd this problem on an older bike. Gravity never sleeps and it just keeps pushing. Newer bikes have vacuum cutoffs at the petcock which automatically shut the flow off (if the petcock is good). Eventually, petcocks get leaky too.
Here is the things to do:
1) The interface between the brass seat and the valve in the carb is the first thing to fix. I take the valve out (it's the little metal piece with the cone shaped tip the float tab pushes against) and put it in a drill and polish the cone. It has to be dead smooth to get a good seal with the seat.
2) I also polish the seat where the cone sets into. I use a Q-Tip or similar and polish it with chome polish. You can also chuck it into a hand drill and polish it. The idea is to get the inside very smooth.
3) Adjust float levels to make sure they are right.
4) Always turn the gas off at the petcock when not running.
If it still leaks, one or more of the parts listed above may have to be replaced.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- Qdude
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- It is all good.
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I take the valve out (it's the little metal piece with the cone shaped tip the float tab pushes against) and put it in a drill and polish the cone. It has to be dead smooth to get a good seal with the seat.
If I remember correctly, the one in my carbs have triangular shafts, which means that they would fit it a drill chuck just fine..... Hmmmm.... wow. Yea rsolano, give this a shot. (Thanks a lot Mr. Teachmesomethingnew.)
I agree that there are probably no people here who have not had this problem.
Try the sea-foam, I wish I had known about it when I got my bike initially and was fixing a leaky float bowl. (I am going to go look for it now for preemtpive maintenance purposes :woohoo: ) As it was, I got a lesson in rebuilding carbs and setting float bowl levels, times four at only 30 bucks per rebuild kit..:huh:
Also, unless you are going for the pure stock thang, switch out the petcock on your tank. Mine leaked a painfully slow, steady drip through the gas supply line in the "off" position (then leaked out the side of the petcock after subsequent attempts at repairing.) This coupled with the recent carb rebuilds and repeated (and unnecessary) float level adjustments had me chasing Gremlins for a couple of weeks.
I suggest that you really do look into that petcock, and consider getting a vacume cut-off replacement. It is a very easy install, and there are many different options you have in getting one.
Welcome to the site. Post often.
77 KZ 650 C1.
77 KZ 650 C1.
Crashed-Repaired, Pods, Kerker pipe, re-wired core bundle, lamp upgraded, homemade rectifier, solid state regulator , Dyna-s ignition, repainted, slightly modified, year-round commuter
Honda Metro 85 mpg Scooter. Dont laugh I will throw it at you
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- bountyhunter
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bountyhunter wrote:
I take the valve out (it's the little metal piece with the cone shaped tip the float tab pushes against) and put it in a drill and polish the cone. It has to be dead smooth to get a good seal with the seat.
If I remember correctly, the one in my carbs have triangular shafts, which means that they would fit it a drill chuck just fine..... Hmmmm.... wow. Yea rsolano, give this a shot. (Thanks a lot Mr. Teachmesomethingnew.)
You can wrap a little masking tape around them to protect them in the chuck.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bountyhunter
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Try the sea-foam, I wish I had known about it when I got my bike initially and was fixing a leaky float bowl. [/quote]
As far as gas seeping while the petcock is in the ON position: I don't think it can be "fixed" completely, because it relies on a metal-to-metal seal between the needle cone and the brass seat.
Notice how brass parts (seats and jets) get dull looking gradually? They are oxidizing and the surface is getting slightly rougher. They will leak gas there. You actually have to polish them regularly to get them to seal reasonably well with the petcock left on.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- wiredgeorge
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Once you have those things check out, set the float heights using the service fuel level method ONLY. While you are at it, examine the float needle and seat assembly. The seat should be clean and the needle should be smooth with no pitting or deformation.
wiredgeorge Motorcycle Carburetors
Mico TX
www.wgcarbs.com
Too many bikes to list!
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- 28years
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KZ 650 B2 1978/KZ 1979 B4
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- KOOL RYDER
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Pull the carb drain plugs. It flushes the crud out.
Just have a little container to cath the gas when it comes out.
Also the plastic mallet trick has worked for me in the past.
Just wrap on the carb hard enough to jostle the carb body, but not hard enough to cause any damage.
This is a common problem.
Rockin\' a KZ650B2 since 2007 and a KZ 1000E since 2008
1978 KZ650B
1979 KZ1000ST
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- thadley55
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- TWO WEEKS!!!(Money Pit the movie)
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1975 XL125 Honda first bike
1993? VTR 250 Honda gone
1983 LTD 440 Yammy gone
1988 CBR 600 Honda gladly gone!!
1976 KZ900 daily driver
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