H.E.L.P. S.O.S

The picture is old. I was trying to show the cracks on the mounting boots. I have sealed them with gasket maker and electricians tape. ( Jerry rigged ) But maybe the picture will help in telling what type of carbs I am running.

Thanks for the refresher on the starting procedure, Patton.

I would be replacing the carb boots first, even though you thin you have them sealed they may not be, fix the things you see wrong first then start chasing other problems

srobie1 - You have received some bad advice and some good advice. If I had your bike, and I wanted to ride it, I would do this:

1. Replace carb holders
2. Tension cam chain
3. Check valve clearances and adjust
4. Double check to ensure cam timing correct
5. If you have points/condensors, check/adjust ignition timing
6. Call Z1Enterprises.com and order some #110 Mikuni main jets and #17.5 VM22/210 type Mikuni pilot jets and install them.

Your frustration with the bike's performance is due to your not performing a basic tune up. Open your manual and go to the tune-up section and tune the bike up in the order they suggest. Hopefully, you haven't sprayed any oil or anything on your pod air filters because if they are Emgo type (paper) you ruined them. Don't skip any of the items I noted and your bike will run properly after a couple hours work and a few bucks well-spent on necessary supplies. Last point, double check all info you get here on this board. Someone suggested 15 ft/lbs torque on your cam cap bolts. That is about double what is called for and you will strip all thread if you use that much torque. Double check using your manual.

Post edited by: wiredgeorge, at: 2007/12/28 09:08

wiredgeorge wrote:

srobie1 - You have received some bad advice and some good advice.

WG is right. My advice after seeing your carbs -BAD. Don't listen to me. Man I hope it works out!

Am thinking oem carbs had side-located pilot air screws (as shown on carb diagram in Kawasaki.com).

Do the existing carbs (as shown in the photo) have bottom-located pilot mixture screws (on engine side of carb)? If so, turning out enriches pilot mixture (opposite of side-located screws which turn in to enrich mixture).

Some pilot screws had a limiter (often removed) to restrict adjustment. Some carbs had plugs (often removed) covering the pilot screws to prevent or discourage adjustment. Already some excellent links on the site regarding diy removal of such plugs.

Not to say it isn't so, but I'm unfamiliar with a similar appearing Mikuni carb model without any pilot adjustment.

Regarding carb holders -- with an airbox, the carbs are supported in the rear by rubber intake tubes. When using pods, would consider supporting carbs with fabricated hanger strap or wire at intake side to relieve weight-stress on carb holders.

Does enrichment via lifting choke lever have significant effect on reducing glowing red exhaust headers? (But am still suspicious of ignition timing).

Good luck!

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/12/28 09:42

Thanks all, I have ordered the new 110 main jets. I will go back to basics, Do the tune up procedure in my manual.

Very good suggestion to support the carbs. Thanks Patton

My carbs do not have the adjustment screw on the bottom of the carbs. I remember looking for them, there is nothing there.

srobie1 wrote:

... carbs do not have the air mixture screw...

The photo doesn't include enough of the carb to show usual position of side-located pilot air screw (which is usually situated above the rear outside float bowl screw). So forgive this crazy thought -- are the pilot air screws awol? Which could result in the symptoms initially described (an ultra-lean fuel mixture requiring starter fluid to get running, eratic idle, and glowing red exhaust pipes).

Btw, what is the performance history of this bike? How was it running when acquired? Did it arrive as a satisfactory performer or as a project in need of repairs?

For reference if needed --

Ok, I finally started working on the bike.
I have the carbs off once again.
I did NOT clean the Air Screws, when tore it apart to clean the last time. DUH.
So I am cleaning them right now. They were a little gummed up.

MY QUESTION NOW IS- WHAT IS THE SETTING FOR THE AIR SCREWS?
TIGHTEN THEM AND THEN BACK OUT HOW MANY TURNS???
I NEED TO KNOW ASAP, BECAUSE I AM REASSEMBLING THEM RIGHT NOW!!

The air screws on my carbs are the type on the side of the carb. Not Pilot screws. It is showed in the diagram.

if the screws are on the air cleaner side of the carb slide, they are air screws, and opening them adds air(leaner). if they are on the engine side it is the oposite.
I did not hear any talk of a compression test? this should be done as well. this will tell u if there is a ring or valve leaking, wich would also make it hard to start.
it sounds like u are on the right track with the pluged pilot circuit.that would certainly make it hard to start and run hot.
Good luck.