H.E.L.P. S.O.S

If you have any manual and a set of feeler gauges, checking the clearance is a really easy task.

If you have low or no clearance then it gets trickier just remember a few things; first is to READ THE F#$*ING BOOK!


It is easy if you pull one cam at a time. So you don't drop the chain and if you do not move the other cam you can keep your timing set. Then when it comes to the cam cap bolt only re tighten them to about 15 foot pounds (even less if that feels like to much) they are VERY easy to strip out, and fixing them can take a bit of time.



there are many great threads about how to do this!! Some even have pictures.

Good luck getting this beast running.

Post edited by: hardr0ck68, at: 2007/12/27 19:16

yes, i do have a manual. I will dig it out and read up on it tonight. Will i need a new valve cover gaskets if i check the valves?

Holes in the pistons!! I certainly hope thats not the case. Compression test will tell, right??

srobie1 wrote:

Will i need a new valve cover gaskets if i check the valves?
Holes in the pistons!! I certainly hope thats not the case. Compression test will tell, right??

If you are carefull pulling the valve cover off and luck is on your side, you may be able to re-use the gasket.If there is a hole in a piston that cyl will have no compression.

Post edited by: 1982KZ1100D1, at: 2007/12/27 19:49

no compression = holes = no run. Got it.

I found a site that may have them will wait until tomorrow. I will call to see. Anyone heard of motorcyclecarbs.com ????

srobie1 wrote:

... bike will not start without starting fluid. Idle is up and down. Exhaust pipes get glowing red....

Would first double-check ignition timing using a strobe-type timing light. At low rpm (idle speed), be certain F marks for #1/4 (outer cylinders) line up with case mark, and same for #2/3 (inner cylinders). Watch advance unit move back and forth when reving and then slowing to idle. This is to assure the advance unit is not stuck.

Also assure spark plugs are correct size and heat range.

As already suggested, assure pilot air screws are correctly adjusted. Turn clockwise to enrich (decreases air allowed into mixture). Am guessing should be about 1.5 turns out from lightly seated. Too lean will run hot.

If glowing red exhaust pipes exist at lower rpm, I doubt the main jets are responsible, as main jets influence mixture from 3/4 to wide open throttle positions. Whereas the primary circuits influence mixture from idle to about 1/4 throttle.

If an air leak is allowing outside air to intrude into the mixture (leaning the mixture), the leak is often in the carb holders or caps covering the vacuum nipples, or loose clamps. May test by spraying WD40 around carb holders while engine idling to detect any change in performance or exhaust smoke (the WD40 gets sucked from the outside through the leak and into the mixture).

Depending on size of existing main jets, perhaps larger main jets are indicated. And I believe Z1E offers several sizes of Mikuni main jets.

Good luck with the repairs.

Uncertain of style main jet needed, but here's a link to Z1E for Mikuni Large Round style #110 Main Jet (located by entering Mikuni in the Z1E search box).

Z1E #110 Mikuni Main Jet

Best cold cranking procedure --

Ign on; engine stop switch off; tranny in neutral; petcock on (duh x 4 )

Lift choke lever to top (yes, choke fully on -- even in Clearwater).

DO NOT TOUCH THROTTLE.

Push starter button.

Once engine is running, may then play with choke and throttle.

Befrore you go crazy with rejetting, you might try to just richen up your mix a little and moving your slide needle clips up a notch, or two if you got it available. If they are the standard Mikuni Carbs on your 650 they should have an air-mix srcew on each carb. Sometimes they have an aluminum plug covering the screw if it is a U.S. model, which it probably is, unless you know for sure it was imported. ( You'd know by now if you've done any parts replacemant.)You would need to locate the screws and drill out the caps ( check your manual for exact position). Drill sloooowly with a bit just smaller than the cap. I did this just 2 weeks ago on my 550 and while they are different carbs the procedure is the same. Once the caps come off stick your flathead screwdriver in there and individually turn the screws clockwise until they seat LIGHTLY. COUNT THE EXACT NUMBER OF TURNS! It will probably be 1 1/2 pr 1 3/8 or 2 or similar. Then back the screws out 3/4 of what they went in. For Example - If you turn them in 1 1/2 turns - turn them out 3/4 to 7/8 of a turn ; repeat for each carb.
Others may disagree with my methods, but I had some limited success with the method on a '78 650. It got me to work for a while until I got my truck working.

If you can get them in a reasonable time GO AHEAD AND GET THE MAIN JETS ORDERED. My solution is not a permanent fix but it might get you going for a few days. You will likely have to play with the adjustment and the screws to get it running half decent. Be patient. And if it runs be gentle on it, no redlining the throttle, in fact no more than 6500RPM to be safe.



If that dosn't work PM me and I'll give you another tip that most members wouldn't like. I don't want to hear the screaming.

Good luck!

Bikebandit has various jets from the 90's to 100's on OEM parts page. Here's the link directly to the carb page;

houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/kawasa...50b2-us-1978/o/m3961

I have been down this road. I was looking (hoping) to do this adjustment. But my carbs do not have the air mixture screw. I guess they are imported?? I will have get my manual out and look, to see about the clips you are talking about.