BAD Carbs

In the past i have used heat from a torch to warm the gummed needle and seat, or stuck float, then it can be easily removed. Most people will say YOUCANTDOTHAT! but i guess it comes down to how much time u want to spend and if u trust yourself witha torch in ur hand.

Post edited by: nads.com, at: 2007/11/11 12:09

Floats must be removed to access the needles and seats.

As probably already noticed, the carb body has two towers holding ends of the float pin.

Each end of float pin rests in a hole bored through a tower.

The float loosely connects to the pin area between the towers so the float can move up and down rotating on the pin.

When clean, it should be easy to push the float pin out of the towers, which also disconnects the pin from the float. It's okay to push gently against end of pin with an icepick or small punch. Do not force anything on pain of breaking off tip of the tower, and go extremely easy if needing to tap on the punch. It should not be necessary to tap at all.

Might try PBBlaster or other penetrant to loosen fitting of pin inside the towers. If using heat on the tower tips, be very careful to avoid the plastic composit float material.

Good Luck. The carbs are looking much better.

And here's a pic.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/11/11 13:12

Thanks Guys
I think I have it figured out. All parts moving freely. Now to clean them up.

Fratedog
:woohoo:

be very careful if you boil the carbs.
i did that on the little cl100 carb i got off craigslist for free and the wife came home and caught me.
no hiding that smell.
i had to buy her a new pot and take her out for a nice dinner.
( next time i'm using the dishwasher )

Hey Guys,
I am very new to this restoration bit, therefore I ask some elementary questions. I have disassembled two carbs for my 900 LTD and have the 4 kits to replace all jets ect. I see where each part goes except one o-ring. In the kit there are 2 o-rings, one is rather small and goes on the air needle I think. The other is about twice as large and I cannot find any other o-rings in the carb. Could one of you please enlighten me as to where the hell that 0-ring goes?

Thanks
Fratedog:S

kawsakiman wrote:

be very careful if you boil the carbs.
i did that on the little cl100 carb i got off craigslist for free and the wife came home and caught me.
no hiding that smell.
i had to buy her a new pot and take her out for a nice dinner.
( next time i'm using the dishwasher )

Hahahahaha now that's funny:laugh: Sucks when you get busted don't it.:pinch:

The other 0-ring might be for the starter plunger or the float bowl drain screw.

I misspoke myself Patton -- the small one goes on the drain plug. See picture=== the small one is the old drain o-ring --- the right one is the one in question and also in the packet where 2 of the brass screws -- one I put in the proper place -- what is the second one for and where does that o-ring go??

Thanks
Fratedog

The larger o-ring may be an alternate for carb equipped with larger 17mm drain plug on bottom of float bowl (such as Mikuni 29mm smoothbores which don't have a side located float bowl drain screw.)

17mm drain plug from Z1E

17mm drain plug 0-ring

FYI from carb info on Z1E site:

Mikuni 29mm smoothbore carbs

Once power-hungry riders realized the potential of the Z1 engine, a large array of performance parts appeared on the scene. One of the most important of these was the Mikuni 29mm smoothbore carbs. The stock carbs did not adapt well to the increased fuel demands of high-lift cams and high-compression pistons, nor the back pressure changes of the barely flow restricted 4-1 exhaust systems. The 29mm smoothbore carb was by-and-large a cure for many tuning problems. The top of the carb is identical to the 26mm (and later KZ1000 28mm) carbs. The float bowl went back to using the 17mm drain plug directly under the main jet. Great for racers as it allowed for quick changes of the main jet. None of the VM29's have an overflow pipe fitted in the float bowl.
lNote: some very early sets of 29mm smoothbore carbs have a float bowl with a small drain screw angled to the side.

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/11/14 12:04

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/11/14 12:08

Thank Patton That is most likely what it is.