Well, I put the 17.5 pilots back in, WG please read

I had 17.5 pilots in before and the bike ran too rich so I took them out. This was before I understood proper adjustment on the air bleed screws.

So after two years of reading how almost every 650 on this site has 17.5 pilots, and the recamendation of WG in the carb section. I desided to give it another stab. So I put them in again and adjusted air screws accordingly. The air bleeds are 2 1/4 out. Compaired to the 1 1/2 with the 15 pilots.

I have noticed and increase in throttle response and low range pull.

The reson for the change was well I want more power:evil: . AND I have a slight power dip at mid rpm.
WG also recamends that the needles be set at the 4th slot wich I beleive is the second from the bottom.
So I dissassemble the carbs again and find I do have an adjustment after all:blink: DUHH:huh:. I also noticed that the position wasnt neutral like I thought it was [the third slot(middle clip positon)]. The needle was set at the second from the bottom (fourth slot) HMMMMMM what to do. Ok I'll put the needle in the last slot the very bottom. As soon as I get the carbs back together and on the bike I will let you guys know how she runs.

I'm also going to port match the intake boots to the head, and re bench sync the carbs. I dont have a meter to do the running sync on the carbs so I'll break out my 1/8 drill bit again.

Just got done porting out the intake boots. The original size was .990 now they are 1.080. They look pretty good. I also just did the sync with the drill bit. Cant wait to get home and put the carbs on.

Recap:
17.5 pilots
air screws out 2.25 turns
110 mains
needle all the way up 5th level
float level at gasket
pod filters
4-1 exhaust, free flow
screen type fuel filter

Well I put the carbs on and at WOT it seems to bogg, but still pulls at the same time.
It seems like the bike pulled more with the clip in the fourth posistion:pinch: I have not yet tried the third posistion. The bike pulls hard at half throttle but when I give it full throttle it falls flat and seems like it wants more for the rpm. Any ideas anyone.
:dry: I dont like to post by myself:whistle:
I also noticed that it smells a little rich at idle and now it is puffs a little smoke when I give it gas.

:blink:

Post edited by: Snakebyte, at: 2007/07/31 09:49

Ram eh?
:laugh:
Nobody likes to post by themselves, but I have been following your monologue.
If I understand correctly, orginially the clip on the needle was at the

The needle was set at the second from the bottom (fourth slot)

But you say you moved it to

needle all the way up 5th level

.
Which way is it, up or down?

Generally, the clip will be in the 4th slot 90% of the time. Always count the slots from top to bottom. I believe according to WG, reclipping is a LAST resort. Keep us posted..

Yes that is correct the needle is all the way up in the #5 slot meaning more gas.

Shesh that darn clip I had to remove the tops of the carbs and slide the rod out that goes thought all the linkages:( So that means I messed up the bench sync. So that means I have to sync the carbs each time I move the clip

Is there a way to do this an easier way and not to disturb the bench sync of the carbs:dry:

Can someone verify were the fuel level is supose to be at. I could swear that my manual says have the floats at the gasket surface, but have been told to put it at 1/8 in. from the top.

Post edited by: Snakebyte, at: 2007/07/31 10:15

OK, I'm still corn fused.

Yes that is correct the needle is all the way up in the #5 slot meaning more gas.

IF the needle is in the TOP slot, to me that means LESS GAS.

Which position is this clip in 2nd or 4th?


Post edited by: mariozappa, at: 2007/07/31 10:30

Snakebyte wrote:

Yes that is correct the needle is all the way up in the #5 slot meaning more gas.

Shesh that darn clip I had to remove the tops of the carbs and slide the rod out that goes thought all the linkages:( So that means I messed up the bench sync. So that means I have to sync the carbs each time I move the clip

Is there a way to do this an easier way and not to disturb the bench sync of the carbs:dry:

Can someone verify were the fuel level is supose to be at. I could swear that my manual says have the floats at the gasket surface, but have been told to put it at 1/8 in. from the top.<br><br>Post edited by: Snakebyte, at: 2007/07/31 10:15

Damien it is not necessary to remove that rod when you change the position of the clip. Just unbolt the mechanism that attaches to it and that will allow you to roll the slide up high enough to get at the 2 screws that hold the mechanism to the slides. When you are done moving the clip just re-bolt the mechanism to the rod that way you haven't messed with the sync adjustments at all. I hope this makes sense to you.

Mario the clip is in the 4th posistion.

Gringo, I'll take another look. I did try unscrewing the 8mm bolt from the arm, but it didnt rotate enough to pull the piston up and out. I will take another look there has to be something I overlooked.

I took one of my starter plungers out to take a look at the seals and found out that the seal has swollen like a bunt cake. I took a picture of it and will post it as soon as I get the disposable camera printed:whistle:

You will not be able to rotate the slide to where it comes completely out. You will be able to rotate it enough to get at the screws. Once you take the screws out you rotate the mechanism out of the way and just pull the slides out.

This little graphic that was a member's avatar should come in handy.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada