Well, I put the 17.5 pilots back in, WG please read

This little graphic that was a member's avatar should come in handy.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada

Let's try that posting again...

Let's try that posting again...

Doing a bench sync using 1/8" drill bits is not a good thing anyway. The purpose of the bench sync is to not only set all four slides at approximately the same level but to also make sure they could be raised and lowered in the center of the range of operation of the idle screw/knob. To bench sync, do it by eye and don't use anything set under the slide. First loosen all four locknuts and screw the idle knob in about two turns so that the idle knob pushes the bellcrank open (and slides open) just a tad... your factory service manual actually gives you a distance from between the cable holding stop and the bellcrank stop... I think it will be about 1/8". Then close the slides so that there is an eyelash opening on each of them. Make the adjustment by eye but make each opening the same. Then open the slides and close the slide using the idle knob to check the adjustment. This puts the adjustment of slide height in the middle of its range and all four will be the same. This is also why the manual suggests using a wire that is less than 1mm and not an 1/8" drill bit.

As far as your jetting woes, you probably are too rich but before doing yet another jet needle removal, when you reach the point where your bike isn't pulling cleanly, pull the choke up. The choke on your bike ain't a choke; it is an ENRICHENER and will make the air:fuel mix at that point a bit richer. If the bike runs BETTER, you are lean in mid-range and if runs WORSE, you need to lean the mid-range by putting the jet needle in the 3rd slot.

The bench sync you described makes a lot of sense. I'll do that to the carbs next time I have them apart.

As for running and pulling the chock up it was a little scary cause the bike really does pull hard, and not to mension it fell flat as soon as I pulled up on the chock so I'll be pulling the carbs off one more time to put the needle at tird posistion.

I was kicking around just doing the carbs totally again.
This time setting the floats at 1/8 from the top of gasket insted of level with the gasket
Also putting the needle in the fourth posistion per WG recamendation in other treads
I beleve what is happening here is cause I have the float at the gasket surface I need to lower the needle to the third slot to balance the air fuel.
I will lower the needle to the third slot for now.

Your fuel level settings are too high and there is no point making other adjustments till you set the service fuel level per the manual. The jets are being flooded with gas and the bike will be very rich and not run properly.

Ok, I took the carbs off.

I'm going to try to explain step by step what I found. I hope I dont confuse any one. Secondly I took a bunch of pics too so I'll be getting those up as well.

I said that my carbs were set right at the gasket level. This turned out to be false. The area was not well controlled and I moved the hoses a lot wich will throw off the readings. It apears that the levels were set at any were from 3/16 to 1/4 from the gasket surface:pinch: . This is why I had to raise the needle to the 5th slot for it to get the fuel it desired.

So I reset them and tripple checked the level and it is exactly 1/8 inch from the gasket surface. I held the hoses still either using the space between float bowls and a zip tie. Then I turned the fuel on and let it rise on its own.
After I set the levels I put the needles back to the 4th slot using the method Gringo said to do worked great and a lot faster:) .Thank you Gringo
Then I synced the carbs using the metode WG told me to do. Good thing I did because they were off. Thank you WG.

As I stand right now.
Float 1/8 from gasket surface
needle in 4th posision
110 mains
17.5 pilots
air screws 2 1/4 turns out
bench synced
pod air filters
4-1 Mac exhaust
Dyna green coils
Supression wires:sick: (will get solid cores on as soon as I pick up new resister boots)
Gaps set at .035
NGK B7ES

As soon as I put them on I let you guys know.

Damien I'm glad to see you understood what I was talking about, it seems like you are making progress sorting out these carbs. Once you get it back together and close if you want to take a ride down to Akron I've got a set of carb sticks we can use to get the sync exact. I'm off all day on Monday and usually I break free on Sunday at 5 or so. Give me a call and we can set something up.

Wow cool Thanks. What is the difference in bench sync and meter syncing. I'm thinking that all you have to do is set the height the same in the carbs and that is it. If there is more to it then that please explain. What will be the difference in setting it with the meters.

I will be over as soon as I check the valve adjustment. Oh and get my solid core wires and resister caps.

There is one other area of my carbs I need to tend too. The starter plungers need seals or o-rings. My original seats for the plungers were cracked so I used the tips of vacume caps as seals. It worked to seal them, but recently I took them out to inspect them and saw they were swolloen and fuel soaked. I would rather put the correct seal back on, but I guess I'll put them back in for now. The kawasaki website want $100 for the set (4). I was hopping WG has some seals he can sell to since I just need the seal not the whole plunger assembly:)

Snakebyte wrote:

...
needle in 4th position...
air screws 2 1/4 turns out
bench synced
Dyna green coils
Supression wires:sick: (will get solid cores on as soon as I pick up new resister boots)....

My 2 cents:

Needle in 4th position is richer than middle 3rd position, so if actually does improve mid-range performance is probably because of the pods inhaling more air.

Air screws 2 1/4 turns out -- seems excessively lean, and am wondering why so much air is needed in the idle circuit.

Bench sync gets into the ballpark from a visual or static measure, whereas manometer sync with engine running is the real life balance among carbs under actual operating conditions.

Resistor boots -- would instead consider Dyna solid wire core plug wires which are delivered complete with boots already installed.

Dyna Plug Wires at Z1E

Just food for thought.
I'll shut up now.

Good Luck!

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2007/08/03 14:20

I have explained this before. The bench sync primary purpose is to set the slides in the center of the adjustment range of the idle screw. The procedure also serves a secondary purpose in getting the slides approximately the same height.

The purpose of synchronizing with a manometer is to adjust the slides so they have an equal amount of vacuum going through so the carbs will draw an even amount of gas in each range of operation. Since compression can NOT be dead level in each cylinder, there WILL be some variation, making the slides all of equal height as in a bench sync actually makes them out of synchronization just a tad... you have to use a manometer or similar device to measure vacuum pressure in each cylinder/carb slide to make them the same. When you have mechanical slide carbs, the slides all connect to the same pivot and adjusting one will change the adjustment on all the others; that is why you need four separate gauges for a four cylinder carburetor assembly (4 carb).

I havent ran the bike yet , but the carbs are on the bike.
As for the pics non of the important ones came out:sick: wich really sucks because I took step by step picks even the difference between drill bit sync and WG style of syncing, Wich was a bigg difference. WGs way is way more presice.
I also took pics of adjusting the needle height Gringos way.
I'm going to see if I can adjust the clarity on these pics and then try to post some.