Shift point

  • Southpaw
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Re: Shift point

04 Dec 2025 09:03
#919546
Injected,

The head is basically stock, valves were changed to SS but stock size. Head has been port matched and runners smoothed out, but nothing i would consider actual porting. I know im leaving alot of compression on the table cause i have alot of piston to valve clearance. I know how to rebuild an engine but im learning how to build a race engine one step at a time. so this winter i want to dive into the head/cams area and learn more about that

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Re: Shift point

05 Dec 2025 05:51 - 05 Dec 2025 05:53
#919567
Injected,

The head is basically stock, valves were changed to SS but stock size. Head has been port matched and runners smoothed out, but nothing i would consider actual porting. I know im leaving alot of compression on the table cause i have alot of piston to valve clearance. I know how to rebuild an engine but im learning how to build a race engine one step at a time. so this winter i want to dive into the head/cams area and learn more about that

 
OK, that explains some of your power issues.

A stock Z1 head only flows about 70 CFM (intake side) with a .500" lift cam, but a pro ported big valve Z1 head will flow +110 CFM depending on how big you push the runners. Since all engines are air pumps the more air you can push thru the more potential HP it will produce.

You want the head flow to at least match what the carbs can draw thru. Your RS34 carbs flow about 114 CFM (per Larry Cavanaugh) so you can open up the ports on that head a lot more.

Once you big valve the head you deck it to bring the compression back up lost by sinking and de-shrouding the valves. This is where you can also boost the cranking compression to over 200 PSI. You also want to run higher lift cams (+.435") to take advantage of the increased air flow. All of this requires mocking up with clay to make sure everything works together and has proper clearance.
 
1978 KZ650B2 w 1197cc Z1 engine
1977 KZ650B1 w 750cc Spectre engine
1979 KZ650C3 w 831cc Hot Rod engine
1978 KZ650C2 w 762cc DFI project
1977 KZ650C1 stock restoration project
1978 KZ650B2 modified project
1978 KZ650B2 Injected Drag 831cc
1980 Z1 Custom Frame Drag 1327cc
1981 Z50R Honda tow bike
Last edit: 05 Dec 2025 05:53 by Injected. Reason: sp

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  • Dragbike_Mike
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Re: Shift point

07 Dec 2025 05:48 - 07 Dec 2025 06:01
#919590
A stock Z1 head only flows about 70 CFM (intake side) with a .500" lift cam, but a pro ported big valve Z1 head will flow +110 CFM depending on how big you push the runners. Since all engines are air pumps the more air you can push thru the more potential HP it will produce.

You want the head flow to at least match what the carbs can draw thru. Your RS34 carbs flow about 114 CFM (per Larry Cavanaugh) so you can open up the ports on that head a lot more.

Once you big valve the head you deck it to bring the compression back up lost by sinking and de-shrouding the valves. This is where you can also boost the cranking compression to over 200 PSI. You also want to run higher lift cams (+.435") to take advantage of the increased air flow. All of this requires mocking up with clay to make sure everything works together and has proper clearance.


 
Injected is spot on here.  Although, as the old saying goes, "speed is money, how fast do you want to go?".   I'd say that if you're going to go all in on a cylinder head/piston combo, please make sure that the bottom end of the motor and trans are up to the task.  If you're tempted to take a shortcut anywhere in the process, ultimately it will come back to bite you in the a$$.
And, to address Southpaw's original question, I'd say that a shift light is a whole lot easier to see after launching and while making your way down track.  Although, without a datalogger of some sort, you'd still need a tach to see RPMs when going through the traps.  If you can integrate a shift light into your setup, life will be a bit easier and your runs will be more consistent, IMHO.
Presently - 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD w/mild ported head, Megacycle cams, 1015cc Wiseco, Falicon Supercrank, R&D undercut trans
In a former life - KZ-based dragbike - CrMo car tire chassis, 1395cc, Hahn Racecraft turbo system, VP C16, Orient Express 3-spd auto, 7.80's @ 165-170.
Last edit: 07 Dec 2025 06:01 by Dragbike_Mike. Reason: spelling correction

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Re: Shift point

07 Dec 2025 05:55 - 07 Dec 2025 06:02
#919591
I don't know anybody who runs shim over on a drag setup. 
Me neither.  Shim over buckets are a whole lot more convenient for valve adjustment without question, but with high lift cams at high RPMs you're asking for trouble.  Only once did I see a shim get spit out of a head.  Not pretty....
Presently - 1980 KZ1000B4 LTD w/mild ported head, Megacycle cams, 1015cc Wiseco, Falicon Supercrank, R&D undercut trans
In a former life - KZ-based dragbike - CrMo car tire chassis, 1395cc, Hahn Racecraft turbo system, VP C16, Orient Express 3-spd auto, 7.80's @ 165-170.
Last edit: 07 Dec 2025 06:02 by Dragbike_Mike. Reason: spelling correction

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  • Injected
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Re: Shift point

07 Dec 2025 06:22
#919592
This thread morphed into engine building after I posted that 1075 drag bike example, which in all fairness was not a good example to post. Drag bikes are like snowflakes, no two are alike.
1978 KZ650B2 w 1197cc Z1 engine
1977 KZ650B1 w 750cc Spectre engine
1979 KZ650C3 w 831cc Hot Rod engine
1978 KZ650C2 w 762cc DFI project
1977 KZ650C1 stock restoration project
1978 KZ650B2 modified project
1978 KZ650B2 Injected Drag 831cc
1980 Z1 Custom Frame Drag 1327cc
1981 Z50R Honda tow bike
The following user(s) said Thank You: SWest

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Re: Shift point

Today 04:38
#919642
This thread morphed into engine building after I posted that 1075 drag bike example, which in all fairness was not a good example to post. Drag bikes are like snowflakes, no two are alike.

Thats ok all this info has my wheels turning, as i said im learning so all the info everyone is sharing is greatly appreciated.
So let me pose a question, would it be better/easier to put a J head on this motor vs. having port and valve work done to the Z1 head?
Would also love to hear everyone's thoughts on this: I have been told I should go up to a 1325 CC engine as it will be more consistent throughout the day with weather changes (heat/humidity). My bike gets slower every pass as the temp and humidity increase sometimes a tenth or two every pass, makes it difficult to come up with a dial-in time. Not concerned about speed looking for consistency. Yes the lower end has welded MK2 crank, main cap support plate , trans is backcut and billet second gear

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