TOPIC:

I recommemd including your bike year/model and location in your signature... you might get better and more focused suggestions. Might even be a local who could lend some expertise. You have multiple problems on your bike and sometimes this makes giving advice difficult... where to start?

OK found the problem, ouch~~~!!!!!!

Broken timming chain.

Now here is another question, Is there a universal link for these? like a chain? Can I replace the chain without splittin the motor? Maybe getting a new chain drilling the pin and replacing it? maybe It's stupid but i'm trying to save time.

Post edited by: customkzft, at: 2006/11/16 20:28

Post edited by: customkzft, at: 2006/11/16 20:29

Post edited by: customkzft, at: 2006/11/16 20:31

Post edited by: xstreamcanadian, at: 2006/11/16 20:33

www.z1enterprises.com sells the tool, and link, but it isn't cheap. If you're careful, you can do this with minimal parts replacing, and not have to remove the head, or oil pan. I will soon be taking on this task(within a few weeks), but my engine is already out of the bike. If the timing chain brike, where and why did it? Are there pieces in the oil pan? You might want to investigate this before just replacing the chain alone. Remember you have that tensioner there as well.

How many miles on that ride there?

Post edited by: CoreyClough, at: 2006/11/16 20:51

Hey Custom. Installing a new timing chain is not something you should be looking to take a short cut on. Do it correctly or get a professional to replace it. If you've got to pull the motor and split the cases then do it. A patchwork job will give you patchwork reliability.

A cam chain that lets loose at high rpm's because of corner cutting has the potential to damage internal parts beyond repair. For the sake of saving your engine get the correct parts and follow the exact installation procedure. You will be riding your bike a lot longer if it is built correctly.

As mentioned earlier, please identify the bike's model and year so fellow members will be able to offer specific advice on your problem.

Cheers-Colin Firth-Ontario Canada
1977Kz 650 Custom. Latest reincarnation includes 810 big-bore with lottsa go-fast goodies tucked away inside.

I was riding to work and a car cut me off i locked up the rear wheel and i guess thats where it happened, It was a clean snap, so i don't think there are any metal pieces anywhere. I have the head and cylinder block off it's just trying to get the chain around the gear on the crankshaft. Thanx for the link

OK well I guess I don't have a chain but a belt, it's a 96 kzp.
So these "belts" can't be broken appart with any tool.
right?

So my only option is to remove the motor and slit the engine, any pointers from anyone who has done this? oviouslly the tranny has to be taken out right? whats involved in that? and how hard is this to do? and if anyone has any pointers at all please i would love to hear them.

Thanx alot guys and wish me luck.

CustomKZFT your last post really made me go "Huh?" since I had never heard of any Kawasaki using a belt for a cam chain. So I looked up your bike on the Kawasaki site and I think I see where your confusion is. In the schematic for your cam chain whoever did the illustration chose not to draw out all the links for the chain rather just a small section so if you just look quickly at the pic it does look like a belt. In the part description it tells you that you do in fact have a chain with 152 links.





I thought it was weird that Kaw would use a belt, the only bike that comes to mind that used a timing belt was the early Goldwings from Honda. Hope this helps.

Post edited by: The Gringo, at: 2006/11/18 08:51

split link cam chains are as common as dog doo over here, the link is rivetted with a special tool and is just as strong as a factory supplied endless chain, some are stronger due to better metal technology used in manufacture. The chains retail here for about $50AUD for standard and $75AUD for heavy duty, the tool is made by Motion Pro and retails for $125 here, but it is a tool that can be used for all chains from Hy-vo camchain up to 630 drive chain. The only must do when using the tool for cam chain is that the pins to be removed have their ends ground off (using a dremel type unit does this best) before pushing them through.

Thanx guys

The "belt" timing chain is infact A chain, but it is a multy link chain, Meaning it has three "bones" as you may call them and pins. When I talked to a local mechanic he told me it was a chain but called a belt.

Now, this three Bone chain is what i was wanting to take appart, now I know i've been told that I should just take the engine appart but I'd rather not, I don't know exactly what is involved and I don't want to mess with it if i don't have too. I know, Do it the right way first, don't take shortcuts, but I really really don't want to split the motor just to install a chain.

If I have to I will drill out a chain pin and manufacture another pin when I put the chain back on, and if that does not work I will just buy another case with chain still on, I find them on ebay quite often and they are not that expensive.

If indeed you guys tell me that it's not that difficult to take the engine apart then I will consider do it, but if it's something that takes alot of motorcycle engine experiance then I'd rather go the "McGaver" way;)

Here is a pic.

customkzft wrote:

it's a 96 kzp

Although unfamiliar with 96kpz top end, am wondering if it uses a hyvo cam chain (not roller-link style). Believe different rules apply for replacing hyvo cam chains in that hyvo is basically a one piece unit not amenable to a "master-link" style replacement.


Just saw Popeye's reply which was educational to me and seems a feasible alternative, even with a hyvo style.

As someone else earlier suggested, Z1E carries the hyvo cam chain, master link, and riveter tool (the tool is listed for under $80 but noted temporarily out of stock)



Post edited by: Patton, at: 2006/11/18 17:43

Post edited by: Patton, at: 2006/11/18 17:54

Im not up on the gpz's, but cant he just remove the pan to gain access, and easily rap the split chain around the crank, rather than splitting the cases?I guess the key here is splt chain. You need the split chain or you will need to split the cases.As far as how hard this is.I would say the hardest part is putting the top end back together.getting the timming of the cams right is usually the most confusing part.Before you put it back to gether you need to measure your piston to wall clearance.If your motor is old enough to need a cam chain you may need a ring job too(or pistons).