TOPIC:

I've been studying cams to go with the 810 big bore kit for a 750E. I know the GPZ cams are a good option but came across some old Andrews cams, both intake and exhaust. Hard to find info on them, they are number 15. Only specs I found are from an old post on this site:

"Andrews offered the following grinds for the 650/750 Kawasaki
10 - 236 .330 - Bolt in Stock cups & springs 2500RPM+
15 - 244 .340 - Same as above but for 750cc
20 - 252 .350 - Modified engines up to 82 3000RPM+ stock springs and cups
25 - 260 .360 - 82 & Later Stock springs OK piston clearance needs checking more power from 3000RPM
30 - 270 .370 Best cam for big cc street motor. Springs, cups and collars sould be upgraded. Power comes on from 3000RPM+
35 - 274 .380 - Street/drags 800cc and up. Fully modified engines rurn on from 5000RPM up. Springs, cups, collars should be upgraded
40 - 262 .392 - Drags and big motors. Springs and cups required. Broad torque to 11000RPM"

The #15 there looks like a grind in between stock and the GPZ cam. Would that work well with the 810 big bore kit? Or would I be better off looking for a GPZ cam? (The Andrews exhaust cam has the tach gear so that's a positive.)

Assuming they are not overly expensive, I'd go for the Andrew's.  I'm assuming they are somewhat similar to the GPz cams.

That's really what I'm unsure of. GPZ750 cams have .354 lift and 250 duration. How would that compare with the Andrews .340 and 244 performance-wise?

And they are a bit expensive...

Aftermarket cam specs are typically listed at .040" or .050" cam lift (lash needs to be deducted.)  This would make those Andrews cams hotter than the GPz counterparts.  

Regarding expense, with a 800cc kit installed, you will get a nice torque boost.  Most guys on this site are quite happy with their engines this way, and going deeper in the build may not be needed.

I have used both the GPZ750 Unitrac cams and those Andrews #15's.

I don't think you could tell the difference between those two sets of cams performance wise especially if you have a stock cylinder head.

You really don't see a big difference unless you have a big valve head and you go over .360" lift.

If you really want to rev the engine to red line make sure and use aftermarket performance springs, the old stock springs are not up to the task.

Thanks for that, advice from someone who's used them is what I was hoping for! Engine work is something for the long term, but at least I'm ready to start collecting parts.

The bike is stock except for pipe, jetting, and pods. It sat for many years so I'm first going to get carbs and tank cleaned out and try to get it running. But my current bike is a BMW K1300s, prior to that had a ZX-12r. Obviously the KZ will never appoach their level but I'm sure I'll be wanting more power out of it eventually. Think it would be lots of fun as an 810...

I have O-ring kits for the stock Keihin CV34's on your bike.  I've restored a bunch of sets of those carbs...

Thanks, I already ordered a kit for the carbs. Also dove in and got a 22L ultrasonic cleaner. I have a Bandit 1200 that also sat for many years. Had a local guy work on the carbs a while back, it ran (not great) for a while, then sat for 6 weeks and wouldn't start again. Going to go after those carbs again myself this time.

Also, got the KZ carbs pulled today. Still leaked a little gas after not running for 11 years, figured they'd be dry...

Figuring out how this quote function works, getting there I think.

Injected, can you tell me how big a difference the Andrews #15 with an 810 kit will make compared to stock? Thinking of some minimal headwork too maybe. Trying to decide if upgrades will be worth the expense...

Injected wrote:

Injected post=885750 userid=6924

I have used both the GPZ750 Unitrac cams and those Andrews #15's.

I don't think you could tell the difference between those two sets of cams performance wise especially if you have a stock cylinder head.

You really don't see a big difference unless you have a big valve head and you go over .360" lift.

If you really want to rev the engine to red line make sure and use aftermarket performance springs, the old stock springs are not up to the task.

Franklin wrote:

Thanks, I already ordered a kit for the carbs. Also dove in and got a 22L ultrasonic cleaner. I have a Bandit 1200 that also sat for many years. Had a local guy work on the carbs a while back, it ran (not great) for a while, then sat for 6 weeks and wouldn't start again. Going to go after those carbs again myself this time.

Also, got the KZ carbs pulled today. Still leaked a little gas after not running for 11 years, figured they'd be dry...

Please ungang the carbs fully to clean them.  Don't attempt to dip the rack still connected.  The interconnection tube and fuel Tee O-rings are sure to be hard as a rock and will crumble when you go to change them.  And I've never seen a "carb kit" with the interconnection tube O-rings.

Regarding carb kits, the only ones I've found with good float needles are Keyster brand, or Keihin, of course.  

Good luck

Thanks for that advice, I've rebuilt carbs just a few times so I'm no expert. Also, I'll start another thread in Projects since I have quite a few things to do with this old girl...

Franklin wrote:

Figuring out how this quote function works, getting there I think.

Injected, can you tell me how big a difference the Andrews #15 with an 810 kit will make compared to stock? Thinking of some minimal headwork too maybe. Trying to decide if upgrades will be worth the expense...

Injected wrote:

Injected post=885750 userid=6924

I have used both the GPZ750 Unitrac cams and those Andrews #15's.

I don't think you could tell the difference between those two sets of cams performance wise especially if you have a stock cylinder head.

You really don't see a big difference unless you have a big valve head and you go over .360" lift.

If you really want to rev the engine to red line make sure and use aftermarket performance springs, the old stock springs are not up to the task.

I can't give you a exact power increase you will see from going from stock 750 to 810cc w cams but the majority of the power is coming from the additional 70cc and the compression increase brought on by the forged piston kit. The cams will make it breath easier and bring the revs up quicker. Slot the cam sprockets and dial the cams in at 108LC. Make sure the cam chain tensioner is working correctly (sometimes a issue on 750's)
Best guess is you would be gaining around 12-14 HP at the wheel.
Don't go crazy on the port clean up if that's what your hinting at, seen more ruined than improved on DIY porting.
Just make sure the valves are clean and sealed up.
I would also suggest some type of oil cooler because the liners are going to be really thin.