Clutch or clutch cable problem ?

Thx Injected...
Have already measured and the ball is still there, so there is probably another problem. Will check the clutch disks and springs...as soon I have figured out how to remove the bolt for timing unit so I can remove the cover...


 

So, It not seems the wire, the rod or missing bearing ball that is the problem. This evening I removed the engine ("clutch") cover and removed the clutchdisks. As you can see in the attached video, when pressing the clutch lever the three outer disks moving. The three inner dont move but I am able to push them with my finger. I removed the disks and let them soak a while in oil. Cant really say it helped. 
One thing I discovered is that with first gear in moving the bike with clutch lever activated it feels as there is no clutch activated but after a while it feels better....

The discs dont look worn out and when measure they are 3,1 to 3,2 mm. The springs are around 32-33 mm.  Could my problem be the discs and or the springs...?
This start giving me some grey hair...

 

Just to confirm - the problem you're experiencing is that the clutch doesn't disengage when you press the lever? Does it not disengage at all, or does it drag? If you have your bike in first, clutch pulled in, does the bike turn over without pushing you forwards?

Poor springs and clutch plates will prevent the clutch from engaging - the opposite problem to having the ball bearing missing or other diagnostics you've done so far. This usually results in the clutch slipping at high power at first, and gets worse over time, it won't suddenly stop working at all from worn clutch plates and springs. The actuation you have in your video looks fine to me.

Your choice of oil can make the clutch drag, and typically a thicker oil will make it drag badly until it is warmed up. If you put thick oil not designed for wet clutches into a motorbike, the clutch will drag, and when cold can be enough to prevent starting and can even stall if you start it in neutral and drop it into gear. Typically it gets better as the engine warms up and the oil gets thinner - but the solution is to put the right oil in.

Thx for answer.

Yes, when lever is pressed and 1st gear in, and move the bike is not moving "freely", If I move it back and forward a minute it becomes better but not god enough. 
Dont remeber if I use 10W20 or 40 oil. Have to check that and buy a oil for MC with wet clutch.


 

Please excuse me if I missed these.

When adjusting the cable, did you make the adjustment in the exact order listed in the manual? Screw and locknut first, mid-cable second, and clutch lever last?

Did you count the number of plates and rings in the clutch assembly? I think it should have six friction plates, five steel plates and six steel rings.

Here is a link to the manual.   www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/7...chablefullmanual.pdf
 

wrote:

Please excuse me if I missed these.

When adjusting the cable, did you make the adjustment in the exact order listed in the manual? Screw and locknut first, mid-cable second, and clutch lever last?

Did you count the number of plates and rings in the clutch assembly? I think it should have six friction plates, five steel plates and six steel rings.

Here is a link to the manual.   www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/7...chablefullmanual.pdf

 

Yes did the adjustment in exact order....
And the number of discs and plates are exactly as the servicemanual for my version of the bike..
The strange thing is that the only thing is that the clutch was working (with a broken clutchcable) back in may when I recceived the bike. I ordered a new one (OEM) and it dont work...
Though it was out of oil for a while when waiting for new oilfilter.