KZ650. Never failed me. Till Now. Need Ideas: Coil, Carb most likely

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Pulling leads with plastic pliers was the normal method of mis-fire diagnosis "back in the day" hence why Snap-On made a tool specifically for this. Even if you pulled a brand new lead on a running engine it is going to "bite you" (I have over 40 years experience !)

 

I wouldn't bother trying to tell him anything. He seems to ask a lot of basic questions and then argue with the more experienced people about the answers.

I think he is actually someone who was banned from the site a year or two (?) ago for bad behavior. If it's not the same guy, he's doing a pretty good impression.

Anyway, now that he is apparently keen to do his own research, perhaps he can go do that and leave us lesser mortals alone.
 

Im sorry you are offended but saying I think of members of this forum as lesser mere mortals, words that you put in my mouth, is ridic. Wookie and Warren and Nessism have been VERY helpful with my issues. I value the information I find here, but I also contrast it with my own research. When i go to the doctor, I dont JUST take his word for it, I research as well. Its called getting a "second opinion."  People can learn from the back and forth in this forum without getting emotional.

I have said I will change the wires and update the forum as the wires have been resting on the burning hot engine and may be compromised. Its all very simple.

Thanks

Take note of the number of resistor elements in the spark lead system.  It's important to use only one resistor element: either the wire, the plug cap, or the spark plugs.  Kawasaki used non-resistor wires, non-resistor plugs, and resistor type plug caps.  Dyna wires of the past were commonly suppression type, which means they have resistance built in, and non resistor plug caps.  Again, only one resistor allowed.

One other thing to be aware of is to isolate your wires from each other and from ground, to the extent possible.  The factory wires typically had an insulator around them, and they are routed so the wires don't touch each other (to the extent possible.)  With fresh wires this won't typically matter, but as the wires age, it can help avoid a short to ground.

Honestly, I'm staying out of this fight about whether these wires need to be changed, but I will say that starting the bike in a dark area, where you can visually look for sparks, will tell the story as to if you are shorting out to ground.  The spark will both show in terms of a flash, and a crack sound will occur.

Pulling a plug wire on a running engine is the best way I know of to get bit. A mechanic testing a wire or missfire will hold a screwdriver against the engine next to the plug wire being removed. The spark will jump from the removed wire to the grounded screwdriver keeping the tech safe. Back it the day the way to kill your lawnmower was to flip a grounded metal bracket against the plug cap. The spark takes the lesser resistance to ground through the metal bracket away from the plug and cylinder and the engine dies, with a perfectly good plug wire. I dare you to pull the plug wire off your running lawnmower. Please wait till I’m there to watch. 

Here hold my beer!!!

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Take note of the number of resistor elements in the spark lead system.  It's important to use only one resistor element: either the wire, the plug cap, or the spark plugs.  Kawasaki used non-resistor wires, non-resistor plugs, and resistor type plug caps.  Dyna wires of the past were commonly suppression type, which means they have resistance built in, and non resistor plug caps.  Again, only one resistor allowed.

One other thing to be aware of is to isolate your wires from each other and from ground, to the extent possible.  The factory wires typically had an insulator around them, and they are routed so the wires don't touch each other (to the extent possible.)  With fresh wires this won't typically matter, but as the wires age, it can help avoid a short to ground.

Honestly, I'm staying out of this fight about whether these wires need to be changed, but I will say that starting the bike in a dark area, where you can visually look for sparks, will tell the story as to if you are shorting out to ground.  The spark will both show in terms of a flash, and a crack sound will occur.

 

Thanks! I think I found the problem! have a look at this: 

It's fair to say the "newness" has worn off those 

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It's fair to say the "newness" has worn off those 

 

Just got off the phone with a very nice guy at dynatek. he advised me to take the coil off and clean the terminal because the photo I posted is from where the wire plugs into the coil. Also, instead of buying a new wire, Im going to trim this wire and put a new connector on it.

Perhaps it is time to replace the entire plug wire set.  
See ebay item 360703626590

thanks. will do.

What are those crimp ends made from?  I hope they are tin plated brass.  If zinc plated steel, that doesn't seem right.

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What are those crimp ends made from?  I hope they are tin plated brass.  If zinc plated steel, that doesn't seem right.
 

No idea, but i just purchased new wires direct from Dynatek, which will arrive by the end of the week.

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What are those crimp ends made from?  I hope they are tin plated brass.  If zinc plated steel, that doesn't seem right.

 

No idea, but i just purchased new wires direct from Dynatek, which will arrive by the end of the week.

Makes sense, who knows how far that crud has travelled up the wires, you may have to cut them back a long way to be serviceable.