84 ZN1100 Cylinder Head Upgrade?

My stock ZN1100 cylinder head is out for a basic valve grind, and for now is awaiting access to a workbench.  The current plan is to have minimal work done to get the stock valves to seal properly.  Whether that involves having new guides installed will be determined when inspected.  That is the current status, and I just keep wondering...

...is there something more I should consider having done with it?



 

New valve springs.

wrote:

New valve springs.
 

All brand new OEM Kawasaki valve springs were installed in 2015.  Have been running 84 ZX1100A camshafts since then with no issues.

I don't know how much it matters but I usually do some light pocket porting to smooth out any big chunkies.  

The light porting I did made a BIG difference.  Took out the casting marks, smoothed the shelves made by the valve seats and made the intakes match the manifolds. Lots of slag in and around the valve guides. Left a rough finish for better fuel mixing. Exposed a weak clutch in second gear at WOT. The Z1 head wasn't half as bad as the KZ 1000 head I have on the bike now. RIDING THE PISS OUT OF IT. 
Steve

Hmmm.  Light porting...I like it!

Would that be considered a stage-one port job?

I guess. Too bad Larry isn't with us anymore. He does have a FB channel. 
Steve
www.facebook.com/cavanaughracingheads

Thanks for the member input regarding this project.  I hope to post some pics as they become available. 

On top of a Serdi valve job, we're having a mild port job done, and the intake valves will be back cut to increase low-lift flow.

Not sure what to expect when she's all back together, though I anticipate some sort of a pleasant surprise.

All done and ready to ship...

Back cut intake valves:



Valve seats and port work:

Very nice. 

Lashed the valves and sync'd the carbs twice after startup.  I assume that fresh ground valves and seats need to get worked in as the engine runs, since several shims needed to be changed already.  Will probably need further lash checks and adjustments until the valves become fully seated, however long that takes.

Head nuts re-torqued, and may do again before Winter sit-time in the barn.

Great suggestion to port the head.  It is the cherry on top! 









 

wrote:

 I assume that fresh ground valves and seats need to get worked in as the engine runs, since several shims needed to be changed already. 
 

Yes! They always settle a little after the first run, especially with fresh cut seats etc.
Usually they only need doing once after that first running period then just check them at service time as usual.
I always set them slightly above the high end of the specs initially and then they settle within the book figures and most times you don't need to re-shim.