TOPIC:

Loosen the screw all the way out, put it together then tighten the screw until resistance is felt then back out 1/4 turn. All should be well
Steve

I measures the springs. They are right at their service limit with a measurement of 32.2 to 32.3 mm

Any marks on the inside of the clutch engine cover. Try putting it together with the engine cover off and test your clutch operation. Don’t start the bike

No marks on the clutch engine cover. Looks nearly brand new. Does this little ring on the clutch hub nut look normal?

YES. SELF LOCKING NUT

Update: I replaced all the friction plates, lubed the clutch cable, lubed the push rod and ball bearing, greased the worm gear, and installed new clutch springs. When I pull the clutch lever it pushes the spring plate/compression plate out maybe 1/8th of an inch. I can rotate the clutch from this point with some resistance.When I release the clutch lever I can no longer rotate the clutch. This seems like normal operation at this point.

Questions:
1. This seems to be a big improvement from where I was. Is this a sufficient amount of movement (1/8) on the spring plate?
2. I put a lot of engine oil on the friction plates, but I did not soak them in oil. Is this okay?
Thanks!

Take it for a ride and see how it works.
Steve

Wish I could. Bike is not in running condition yet. 

My clutch doesn't move all that much ether. The adjuster is what changes the throw of the clutch. I not enough you can screw it in a little more or adjust it at the cable. How much free play do you have at the lever?
Steve 

I probably have 1/8 - 1/4 at the lever

I have always found it is best to let the friction plates soak in oil for a day or so before installing them.  A habit from my Harley days.  Some say this isn't necessary, but I hate frying a set of clutch plates when they are new.  1/4" of lever movement is a good place to start.

Rick H.