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  • hardrockminer
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26 Jun 2021 14:06 #850781 by hardrockminer
Replied by hardrockminer on topic Top idler
I can't find a reference to the 0.15 number, but I've always adjusted my KZ1000 B4 to 0.10 to 0.15 and my Z1Bs to 0.05 to 0.10.  As per Z1015's earlier point...I don't mind if I'm a little over the high side.

I have several restored bikes along with a 2006 Goldwing with a sidecar. My wife has a 2019 Suzuki DR 650 for on and off road.

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29 Jun 2021 03:43 #850872 by kevski
Replied by kevski on topic Top idler

Valve clearance is 0.10mm ( .004" ) minimum to 0.15mm on a stock engine and you want to set them as close to the higher figure as possible and if the shims take you a little over at say 0.17mm it's ok.
Race cams will run up to 0.20mm clearance.  



 
You must be giving specs on a MKII engine. Everything I read on this site says the clearance is .05mm - .10mm(.002-.004) on 4 cyl. engines up to '78, and .05mm - .15mm(.002-.006) on MKII. So yeah, mine were too loose at .008+. I like to run them at near max on all my bikes, especially the exhaust side, hence the .005 on a couple of them, which I don't have any issues with. FWIW, I was hearing a ticking that I didn't like before I set them, I don't hear it like that now. 
This bike has Andrews 1X cams in it, I set them per factory specs. What are you calling a "race" cam? I wouldn't run shim over on race cams.

kzrider.com/219-articles/technical-tips/...ing-valve-clearances

My question was about the chain/roller noise kevski was speaking of, not on setting valves . I put that in here to reference what I saw while I had the cam cover off setting the valves when I heard a ticking I didn't like in the top end. The Clicky tick sound is to a minimum now, but I still hear the chain/roller noise, and I'm >assuming< that is what kevski was addressing when he posted this. Is that chain/roller noise something to be concerned with on a 46k mile engine? It is not a loose rattle sound, it's more of a higher pitched whine. Like a chain and roller makes inside an alubidum air cooled engine....
On my previous '78 KZ1000, I got this sharp intermittent ticking sound ever so often that I never could pin down, and it never gave me a problem the whole time I ran that bike. It didn't make that noise every time I rode it, but would pop up for a few seconds, then be gone. That was a strange deal, never figured that one out. 

The sound was a sharp ticking sound on an intermittent basis, faster than idle, I bought a stethoscope in the end and narrowed it down to the centre of motor, I guess it was faster than idle as the roller is small and has to rotate faster, as seen it had come apart, so I pushed out the centre and spun up a solid brass insert and put a new bearing in, I have only done a few miles on it and am waiting to see if it happens again, no whistling sounds. 
 

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  • BlackZ1R
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30 Jun 2021 10:03 #850962 by BlackZ1R
Replied by BlackZ1R on topic Top idler

Valve clearance is 0.10mm ( .004" ) minimum to 0.15mm on a stock engine and you want to set them as close to the higher figure as possible and if the shims take you a little over at say 0.17mm it's ok.
Race cams will run up to 0.20mm clearance.  




 
You must be giving specs on a MKII engine. Everything I read on this site says the clearance is .05mm - .10mm(.002-.004) on 4 cyl. engines up to '78, and .05mm - .15mm(.002-.006) on MKII. So yeah, mine were too loose at .008+. I like to run them at near max on all my bikes, especially the exhaust side, hence the .005 on a couple of them, which I don't have any issues with. FWIW, I was hearing a ticking that I didn't like before I set them, I don't hear it like that now. 
This bike has Andrews 1X cams in it, I set them per factory specs. What are you calling a "race" cam? I wouldn't run shim over on race cams.

kzrider.com/219-articles/technical-tips/...ing-valve-clearances

My question was about the chain/roller noise kevski was speaking of, not on setting valves . I put that in here to reference what I saw while I had the cam cover off setting the valves when I heard a ticking I didn't like in the top end. The Clicky tick sound is to a minimum now, but I still hear the chain/roller noise, and I'm >assuming< that is what kevski was addressing when he posted this. Is that chain/roller noise something to be concerned with on a 46k mile engine? It is not a loose rattle sound, it's more of a higher pitched whine. Like a chain and roller makes inside an alubidum air cooled engine....
On my previous '78 KZ1000, I got this sharp intermittent ticking sound ever so often that I never could pin down, and it never gave me a problem the whole time I ran that bike. It didn't make that noise every time I rode it, but would pop up for a few seconds, then be gone. That was a strange deal, never figured that one out. 

The sound was a sharp ticking sound on an intermittent basis, faster than idle, I bought a stethoscope in the end and narrowed it down to the centre of motor, I guess it was faster than idle as the roller is small and has to rotate faster, as seen it had come apart, so I pushed out the centre and spun up a solid brass insert and put a new bearing in, I have only done a few miles on it and am waiting to see if it happens again, no whistling sounds. 

 
Ahh, I see. That is the exact sound my '78 KZ was making, intermittently. It did not do that very often, but would pop up every now and then, then go away as fast as it came. Never found the source of it, but I didn't replace the upper roller like you did. 
  The sound I hear on this current 1000 is more of a roller chain sound that is amplified from being inside an aluminum engine block/head. Almost positive it's normal KZ engine sounds, bike runs nicely. 
Hope that fixes your tick, kevski. Ride on! 
Kevin

Kawasaki


Someone once told me to marry that motorcycle I was riding ......there's times I wish I hadda listened .

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30 Jun 2021 13:49 #850977 by kevski
Replied by kevski on topic Top idler

Valve clearance is 0.10mm ( .004" ) minimum to 0.15mm on a stock engine and you want to set them as close to the higher figure as possible and if the shims take you a little over at say 0.17mm it's ok.
Race cams will run up to 0.20mm clearance.  





 
You must be giving specs on a MKII engine. Everything I read on this site says the clearance is .05mm - .10mm(.002-.004) on 4 cyl. engines up to '78, and .05mm - .15mm(.002-.006) on MKII. So yeah, mine were too loose at .008+. I like to run them at near max on all my bikes, especially the exhaust side, hence the .005 on a couple of them, which I don't have any issues with. FWIW, I was hearing a ticking that I didn't like before I set them, I don't hear it like that now. 
This bike has Andrews 1X cams in it, I set them per factory specs. What are you calling a "race" cam? I wouldn't run shim over on race cams.

kzrider.com/219-articles/technical-tips/...ing-valve-clearances

My question was about the chain/roller noise kevski was speaking of, not on setting valves . I put that in here to reference what I saw while I had the cam cover off setting the valves when I heard a ticking I didn't like in the top end. The Clicky tick sound is to a minimum now, but I still hear the chain/roller noise, and I'm >assuming< that is what kevski was addressing when he posted this. Is that chain/roller noise something to be concerned with on a 46k mile engine? It is not a loose rattle sound, it's more of a higher pitched whine. Like a chain and roller makes inside an alubidum air cooled engine....
On my previous '78 KZ1000, I got this sharp intermittent ticking sound ever so often that I never could pin down, and it never gave me a problem the whole time I ran that bike. It didn't make that noise every time I rode it, but would pop up for a few seconds, then be gone. That was a strange deal, never figured that one out. 

The sound was a sharp ticking sound on an intermittent basis, faster than idle, I bought a stethoscope in the end and narrowed it down to the centre of motor, I guess it was faster than idle as the roller is small and has to rotate faster, as seen it had come apart, so I pushed out the centre and spun up a solid brass insert and put a new bearing in, I have only done a few miles on it and am waiting to see if it happens again, no whistling sounds. 


 
Ahh, I see. That is the exact sound my '78 KZ was making, intermittently. It did not do that very often, but would pop up every now and then, then go away as fast as it came. Never found the source of it, but I didn't replace the upper roller like you did. 
  The sound I hear on this current 1000 is more of a roller chain sound that is amplified from being inside an aluminum engine block/head. Almost positive it's normal KZ engine sounds, bike runs nicely. 
Hope that fixes your tick, kevski. Ride on! 
Kevin

The noise you are hearing is possibly a combination of cam chain noise and primary gear meshing, these motors do have a different sound to a motor with primary chains.
 

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