camshaft gears, idlers - condition check

Have dilemma on what to replace (if replace).
Last pieces for reassembly. I pulled those pieces from 2 engines. Measures all sprockets, one engine is much better.

I read tons of topics on replacing rubber with metal, etc.

All those parts look good to me. The only pieces I am little concerned with 

#1. Rubber disk. Is this replaceable? Should it be? Rubber not crumbling or anything
#5. Has some crumbling in a ridge. How bad it is?
#6. Blocks. I know I can make them solid metal, what size should they be?

Gears with rubber look perfectly fine to me. What kind of failure (if there going to be) I can expect? I just don't feel like replacing all this stuff right now

 

You should at least replace the rubbers, 1, 5 and 6.
The idler wheel rubber centres also go hard and collapse and it's pot luck how long they are going to last if you re-use them.
The compressed height of the rubber blocks is limited by the length of the steel dowel inserts so it easy to calculate the height of any aluminium ones you make.
Just remember to add the the thickness of the steel plates to the final measurements as they won't be needed with solid blocks.
 

wrote:

You should at least replace the rubbers, 1, 5 and 6.
The idler wheel rubber centres also go hard and collapse and it's pot luck how long they are going to last if you re-use them.
The compressed height of the rubber blocks is limited by the length of the steel dowel inserts so it easy to calculate the height of any aluminium ones you make.
Just remember to add the the thickness of the steel plates to the final measurements as they won't be needed with solid blocks.

 

Thank you! Than next questions. Is #1 available somewhere separately without bracket? Or do you have DIY for those? (I know about sprockets, read a lot )
For #6 my question now is if I use alum blocks, then why do I need 4? I don't need dowels and I don't need top ones. Just use shorter bolts and 2 blocks on a bottom to maintain height. Amy I not understanding something? 

 

wrote:

wrote:

You should at least replace the rubbers, 1, 5 and 6.
The idler wheel rubber centres also go hard and collapse and it's pot luck how long they are going to last if you re-use them.
The compressed height of the rubber blocks is limited by the length of the steel dowel inserts so it easy to calculate the height of any aluminium ones you make.
Just remember to add the the thickness of the steel plates to the final measurements as they won't be needed with solid blocks.


 

Thank you! Than next questions. Is #1 available somewhere separately without bracket? Or do you have DIY for those? (I know about sprockets, read a lot )
For #6 my question now is if I use alum blocks, then why do I need 4? I don't need dowels and I don't need top ones. Just use shorter bolts and 2 blocks on a bottom to maintain height. Amy I not understanding something? 


 

The roller on 1 is not available separate so you have to buy complete or convert that bracket to take to a sprocket.
Aluminium blocks could be just one short one each side .
The holes in the idler bracket are larger than the 6mm bolts to accommodate the larger diameter dowels so you will need to account for that so the bracket cannot move around.
 

wrote:

The roller on 1 is not available separate so you have to buy complete or convert that bracket to take to a sprocket.
Aluminium blocks could be just one short one each side .
The holes in the idler bracket are larger than the 6mm bolts to accommodate the larger diameter dowels so you will need to account for that so the bracket cannot move around.

 

Any hints on #1 conversion? What sprocket would it take? Is it same as #2-3? I have couple extras. Any DIY?

For blocks and hole sizes - got it. I can shorten those dowels as well and make them go through alum blocks sitting just proud so they center bracket.
 

Any hints on #1 conversion? What sprocket would it take? Is it same as #2-3? I have couple extras. Any DIY?

The chain sprockets have all the same chain link pattern and diameter and are interchangeable....

wrote:

Any hints on #1 conversion? What sprocket would it take? Is it same as #2-3? I have couple extras. Any DIY?

The chain sprockets have all the same chain link pattern and diameter and are interchangeable....

We were talking about replacing rubber wheel #1 with sprocket. Does not look like #1 and #2 the same size. Wheel looks slightly larger.

The Z650 tensioner bracket will take an idler sprocket.
The attached pic shows the middle stock 650 with rubber roller and then far right with a sprocket.
These i modify to fit the Z900/1000 as the stock 900/1000 bracket far left is smaller and won't accept a sprocket.
 

But looks like diameter of chain line will be greater with wheel vs sprocket. Isn't it a problem?
And what axle/shaft do you use when converting to sprocket?

Liska Racing could provide parts you need:

www.liskas.com/kz650-cam-chain-idlers-tensioners/

And they are the only ones who make replacements for  larger (lower or #5 in your list) roller.

Don't forget to buy new shafts for new rollers.

I bought PMC sprockets from Japan Webike but only due to reasons of orders optimization (shipping fee to Ukraine, custom duties, etc.)

www.gazzz-garage.com/2020/09/24/kawasaki...ension-system-again/

www.gazzz-garage.com/2019/04/12/kawasaki...hain-tension-system/

www.gazzz-garage.com/2019/06/14/kawasaki...hopping-post-part-7/

wrote:

And they are the only ones who make replacements for  larger (lower or #5 in your list) roller.

Don't forget to buy new shafts for new rollers.

 

I think I will buy big rubber wheel from Liska, but there is a lot of money in all of those parts! Shafts look pretty good (and measure too) - don't see reason to replace them. I do replace a lot of parts in engine, but there should be a stop somewhere. Those sprockets I will restore myself if needed. 

Right now my thinking is if it won't do damage (rattle is fine) - I won't touch it. Cylinders/pistons will be left alone. So, anything on "top" will be checked and reassembled without throwing money at it. Head will be done by shop with new guides and valves. Pistons, cylinders, rings, camshafts all will be kept, they all within factory good service ranges.

 

If you break a cam chain you'll wish you bought the Liska's.
Steve