Oh sh%#t monument

Finally, got my bike back together, first time today I got to drive it with the new 34 flat slides and I gotta say I’m impressed, probably can use a little more tuning, but damn if it didn’t wake up. Thinking of getting a better cam next. Any recommendations wanna keep shim over bucket. Currently running slightly ported head,  34 flat slides , K&N pods, Mac 4-1 exhaust no baffles.  MTC 1075 kit. Thanks

K410 and Web 118 are popular options that keep the shim on top. I'm running K410 with an MTC 1135 kit. They seem decent but havent really had a chance to get on them yet--Still breaking in. 

wrote:

K410 and Web 118 are popular options that keep the shim on top. I'm running K410 with an MTC 1135 kit. They seem decent but havent really had a chance to get on them yet--Still breaking in. 

ive seen the web cams, didn’t know bout the K410 I’ll look at that one too, I’ll either have to find someone to degree them or teach myself.
 

Check out "Cam Degreeing for Zombies"  here on the site. I used it as a guide while degreeing mine for the first time. Good Stuff! 

kzrider.com/filebase/search/viewdownload...egreeing-for-zombies  

wrote:

Check out "Cam Degreeing for Zombies"  here on the site. I used it as a guide while degreeing mine for the first time. Good Stuff! 

kzrider.com/filebase/search/viewdownload...egreeing-for-zombies  

ok I appreciate that, did u already have the degree kit, I’m looking to get one of those too

 

I bought the degree wheel and piston stop from APE. For the dial gauge I bought 2. The first was from Harbor Freight and it was a frustrating nightmare to work with. I bought a second off Amazon that was higher quality with solid arms and a stronger magnet. It was a lot easier. 

I think the hardest part for me was not the math or the overall process. It was getting the tip of the dial gauge to stay on the shim without falling off or bumping the cam lobe!  


 

wrote:

I bought the degree wheel and piston stop from APE. For the dial gauge I bought 2. The first was from Harbor Freight and it was a frustrating nightmare to work with. I bought a second off Amazon that was higher quality with solid arms and a stronger magnet. It was a lot easier. 

I think the hardest part for me was not the math or the overall process. It was getting the tip of the dial gauge to stay on the shim without falling off or bumping the cam lobe!  


Ok, the kit I looked at was from Schnitzracing, it’s 150 bucks don’t if that’s good or bad. But that’s the one I was leaning too, I looked at it there cause they carry the web 118.