TOPIC:

1.. 1075 cc in a 900 block requires new larger sleeves. OR get a 1000cc block and Just bore it out
2 This alone will give increased power thru out the whole power band using the 10, .5 compression ratio recommended for street use.
3 Depending on budget you can do cams and some head work would be the next level of performance
4 Also while in motor check and replace cam chain and cam related idler wheels and tensioner
5 900 crank is good. I would have it checked and welded since you will be treating it harshly from time to time. ( This is a basic step )
6 900 crank is lighter than the stock 1000 cranks so spins up faster due to less mass rotating .
Happy Holidays now that Christmas is Over
Dave

Steve... Stock 900 crank??? Did changing the shift lever position help with the 1-2 upshift....?

MIKaw
Do some surfing to some performance websites to check whats out there and why.
APE / KZzone is great source of parts. Once you crack these motors open it is a great time to fix some issues that surfaced
since these motors were designed and than raced.
APE makes something as simple as a shift bushing that will help your shifting headaches. Next have the trans backcut so it
no longer risks popping out of 2nd gear
But Hell What do I know
Dave

Dave,

If yours stays together with 200 HP then id say you know a thing or two!!!

I don't have a shift or trans problem. I was asking Swest if he corrected his... I follow most of his posts...

I wasn't having any luck finding a '76 900 in the correct serial number range for my 900 LTD B1 so I ended up buying cases only. Not my first choice but I figure it would be a learning experience for me... I've built several small block chevy's in my day so I should have the talent to pull this off. Of course with the help of the experts here and a FSM. I was planning to use the 1974 Z1900 engine I recently bought for the internal parts I need but I'm second guessing myself. Thinking that would be better to keep complete and rebuild at a later date... maybe wrong but I cant see myself parting out a Z1 motor...

Edit... Dave you mentioned 10.50:1 CR. All the pistons or kits I'm seeing state 10.25:1 CR. Are the 10.5 a thing of the past???

Didnt check for exact ratios is available for your motor. Anything 10 to 10.5 is fine
My advise is use Joe at Pitstop Performance in Florida to buy MTC pistons and have them do the boring and hand fitting of pistons and he \
also gaps and installs your rings before its shipped back to you
He works direct with MTC and has good pricing as well. In fact if you call MTC direct they will refer you back to Joe as there go to guy
His Home page at the bottom has a link to his Kawasaki assemble guide for super tips on how to get it right..
Dave

Mikaw wrote: Steve... Stock 900 crank??? Did changing the shift lever position help with the 1-2 upshift....?

Yes the stock crank. If I go Bigger I would want to have it welded though it was said not necessary for 1075. I agree with what Dave has suggested. I back cut the tranny myself. The second one I've done it to. Moving the shift lever down helped getting to 2nd but I couldn't use the lever with my bad toe so I put the stock one on. I'll have to move it down one notch to aid in shifting until my toe is fully healed then I'll put the modified one back on. I think the problem I'm having is the seals/bushings are worn out creating too much slop at the shift shaft. I have new ones in the other cover but it doesn't look as nice as the one I have on there now.
Time for some elbow grease.
Steve

Thanks guys.... I appreciate the time you took to help... all good sound advise...