Oil drain plug torque specifications?

I just ordered a new magnetic (fancy) oil drain plug for my '79 KZ1000E because my old one was just about round instead of 17mm bolt style, like it should be. To prevent over tightening in the future what is the correct torque specifications for tightening it? I currently have no oil leakage at all.

Thanks in advance!

Take a look in your Kawasaki Service Manual. It has torque specs for everything. Ed

I may be a heathen but I've found that using a torque wrench on things like the drain bolt is a formula for stripped threads; 40 years worth of hack mechanics have put untold stress on the threads. A new crush washer and a relatively short handle ratchet wrench, 8" long or so, will allow you to go ahead and tighten away without too much risk. If you use a long handle wrench all bets are off unless you have some sense of "feel" regarding such things. And the Kawasaki spec for torque assumes good solid threads, something that may or may not be present depending on the bikes past.

The oil filter drain plug should be torqued to 13 to 16 foot-lbs. The engine drain plug should be torqued to 19.5 to 24 foot-lbs. See P 73 of the manual.

hardrockminer wrote: The oil filter drain plug should be torqued to 13 to 16 foot-lbs. The engine drain plug should be torqued to 19.5 to 24 foot-lbs. See P 73 of the manual.

Thanks guys! I had two manuals, but cannot seem to place them at the moment. I'm sure they have been lint out and were not returned. I will purchase another and chain it to my handlebars!

Serpent7 wrote: I just ordered a new magnetic (fancy) oil drain plug for my '79 KZ1000E because my old one was just about round instead of 17mm bolt style, like it should be. To prevent over tightening in the future what is the correct torque specifications for tightening it? I currently have no oil leakage at all.

Thanks in advance!

Go easy on the oil filter cover. If it cracks or breaks it will leak profusely. The drain plug needs the proper sized 6 point socket held solidly in place to avoid rounding off the hex. I wouldn't sweat the actual torque values too much, as long as it's sealed and cannot fall out when riding. The OEM plug can be drilled and magnets installed to make it magnetic.

In all my years working in Kawasaki dealerships back in the day. I could not believe the number of Kz900/1000's that were brought into the Service Department with drain plugs that customers could not remove because of being severely over tighten. Then add in slightly rounded off bolt heads on them, making them almost impossible to remove even with a 3 foot cheater bar!!! I have seen 1 or 2 oil pans that had to be removed from bike and the remains of the bolt head of drain plug tighten in a vise, and then the oil pan had to be heated up with a torch to remove it!!!!!!

Most early model Suzuki four cylinders have just the opposite problems. When you over tighten the drain plugs on those bikes, it pulls the threads out of the oil pan. The Suzuki oil pans only have like 4 or 5 rows of threads in their oil pans, and they strip real easy. And on the early model GSXR's, if you exceed the recommended torque numbers, it will crack the drain plug boss area!!!! I remember our "ace' mechanic doing that on the very first GSXR that came in for its 500 mile inspection!!!

I never went crazy on tightening my drain plugs and oil filter bolts on my Kz1000 motors after seeing all the problems caused by them being over tighten!!! But I always safety wired those bolts on all of my bikes. After road racing for all those years, its just a force of habit. Plus you never worry about your drain plug falling out and covering your rear tire with oil at speed!!!!!

A couple of weeks ago I had a slight weep from my oil filter bolt. When I checked it for tightness it was finger turning loose. First time ever! I don't know if I forgot to tighten it when I changed oil or whether it loosened up somehow.

The OEM oil drain plug and the oil filter bolt are still available from KHI. The oil filter drain plug doesn't appear to be available.

hardrockminer wrote: A couple of weeks ago I had a slight weep from my oil filter bolt. When I checked it for tightness it was finger turning loose. First time ever! I don't know if I forgot to tighten it when I changed oil or whether it loosened up somehow.

You are lucky you caught it on your pre-ride check. I have seen it a few times where dealership mechanics left the drain plug or filter bolt loose, went for test ride and ended up pushing the bike back missing the drain plug and all of its oil!!! Even seen a few real sharp home mechanics do the same thing!!! $hit happens!!!

Just for some major piece of mind, I would highly recommend drilling a small hole in the drain plug, and filter bolt. Then safety wire both. That way even if you leave one or both loose, they will not back off and fall out!!!! For some of you that are reading this and saying to yourself, I would never do that, I am a better mechanic than that!!! Well I can name you one NHRA Pro Stock team that lubed the whole lane up when someone left the drain plug loose!!!!!

Wow! This is all good information. Never thought about wire tying the oil filter bolt and the oil drain bolt.

Have to ask about the positioning of the oil filter bucket. Some parts diagrams showing the bucket on top other on the bottom of the oil filter.
Which position is right and what is the meaning of the oil filter bucket?

I've never had a bucket on mine. Including my Z1B purchased new in 1975.