TOPIC:

Nessism wrote: With the 750 you don't need the valve cover installed to safely turn over the engine with cams installed, just as long as the tensioner is installed and working. As soon as the valve cover is removed the tensioner will extend and take up the slack in the cam chain. You won't skip a tooth.

My bike came w/ a manual cam chain tensioner, does this still apply? My guess is that it wouldnt because it doesnt have the spring pressure of an auto adjuster but rather is just stuck in place with the locking nut.

You can set the crank/piston on 90 degree BTDC or ATDC = all Pistons are on the same lift high = 33 mm away from the valves.
Now you can turn the cams without the cam chain on into any position without any collisions with the valves to set your valve adjuastments.

Valve update - SWest was correct, 200 was way too big of a step down. On my first pass thru, all 3 valves that got 200 shims measured .305, .381, and .381 clearance. This gives me hope, now I just need to do more math to get the right size in there for the next round and button it up.

Question for the forum - has anyone measured the difference between a single step in mm to determine what the actual difference in 1 step is? I know someone on here mentioned .002 but my math shows me that they measure close to .03mm per step in shim.

Thanks@

.002 is approx .05mm so a 205 is approx .002 bigger than a 200. I like to measure in thousands of an inch not millimeters. What are the rest of the sizes? That should give you a ball park to go on.
Steve

SWest wrote: .002 is approx .05mm so a 205 is approx .002 bigger than a 200. I like to measure in thousands of an inch not millimeters. What are the rest of the sizes? That should give you a ball park to go on.
Steve

Makes sense, it certainly gets confusing when you forget that some people are replying in metric and others in non-metric. I have 200 x 3, 210 x 3, 230 x 3. The shop I am buying these from didnt have 220, so I just bought a range of sizes to get started since I was scared about the zero-clearance on a few of the valves. After the first re-measure, I think I need at least 2 more in 225-235 range to get this write. Ugh, back to shop.

If some are close to the end you may be able to swap them around to make them within spec.
Steve

What SWest said.
I build myself a little cheat sheet so I can do all my swapping around on paper first then install and check. And check again.
At one point wasn't there a shim swap on KZRider or was it just something we talked about?

ThatGPzGuy wrote: What Swest said.
I build myself a little cheat sheet so I can do all my swapping around on paper first then install and check. And check again.
At one point wasn't there a shim swap on KZRider or was it just something we talked about?

I wrote out a cheat sheet this morning with all the sizes that I have and what sizes were in each valve when I took original measurements and have been writing out calculations for how close I can get each valve with the supply that I have. I think I might be able to get it done on this next round now that I have a better understanding of sizing and how it affected the clearance on the valves with issues

Nice job. Make sure you keep it for the next time.

Alright guys.. very scary update to give.

Got my final calculations, got the shims under the buckets, got the cams installed back to spec via lines and # of chain links, go to crank the motor over clockwise after tightening the cam chain tensioner and the the crank wont move. It feels frozen, I didnt push it hard at all out of fear. I pulled the cams off again just to see if for some reason the cams were affecting the ability to crank clockwise and the crank wouldnt turn with the cams off either. I am not missing any tools or bolts so I dont think anything fell in there. I have been able to crank it around over multiple times after removing and re-installing with no problem, so now I am very scared.

please help haha

Make sure the cam chain isn't bound up on the crank.

I assumed the chain didnt wrap around the crank because I was able to get the cams back on and the chain lined up before it froze. Is there a chance that there is enough slack in the chain (possibly from not tightening the cam chain tensioner correctly, my fault) that it could wrap around the crank with the cams on?