TOPIC:

Number 1 I fixed your pictures so we can see them. PLEASE hit the insert button before hitting submit so your pictures can be seen properly

Next That copper head gasket can be reused. Dont bend it up ,, keep it flat as possible. Clean it with scotch brite and then anneal it in a oven and quench it in water. . Then reclean it
and reuse it. Next clean all surfaces. During reassemble the o ring at the cam tunnel shoould be filled with Yamabond and allowed to set up before putting head and gasket back on . Use yamabond at all 4 outside cylinder studs to seal oil galleries . Be careful not to use to much and clog the oil flow. .
If I were you I would e mail and look up Joe Hooper at Pitstop performance in Florida. He has a complete set of needed steps published that are a step by step
guide to proper motor services. My words above are just a partial list of needed things to do to seal up that big motor.
Dave

Here is a link to Joes top end assembly guide. Check it out and the rest of his site
www.pitstopperformance.com/top-end-assembly/
Dave

Be sure the head and barrels are flat. Looks like they're not.
Steve

Took another look at your pictures. Funny I didnt look closer before.
With those huge sleeves you cant run a center o ring as the over bore removes the groove at the cam chain tunnel .
Not sure if groove was welded up or contains RTV. Also the motor has stock studs in it . I would use APE heavy duty studs and nuts
Poor choice to go to 1400 cc in street motor in stock block
Not for the weak at heart, More to follow.................
Dave

The block appears to be a aftermarket big block with metal O rings around the bores. The cylinders look to be sealing but not the rest of the surface area. I agree APE studs would be a MUST on this motor. I changed mine last year after 40 years of use. I'm convinced the stock ones kept stretching causing leaks on a mild HP build.
Steve

there are no metal Ring in the head those are carbon stains, its just a copper head gasket and nothing else, thanks for all the input

Looks like a copper ridge around the cylinders. That is common on HP applications.
Steve

SWest wrote: Looks like a copper ridge around the cylinders. That is common on HP applications.
Steve

When using a pure copper gasket the common practice is to cut a groove in the top of each sleeve and insert a wire into the groove which sticks out enough to help seal each cylinder .
Thats how my bike is done

Street Fighter LTD wrote: Here is a link to Joes top end assembly guide. Check it out and the rest of his site
www.pitstopperformance.com/top-end-assembly/
Dave

Great assembly guide Dave! Joe literally glues these motors together. No oil leaks OR taking it apart after this assembly procedure. LOL I used spray copper coat and copper anti sieze on the stud threads the last time. So much for that assembly routine.. 30 wt on the threads and gaskacinch next time.



I just ordered both the Gaskacinch and Threebond 1194 off of fleabay. I also ordered new front and rear cam chain tensioners from Partzilla (~$80 .00 with frt) . Not the complete list yet, but getting close.. THe main reason I am replacing the tensioner slides if due to the age, and I don't want a brittle nylon part to break on my way to church.

I really hate to take this motor apart again because it runs soooo freakin good, but I want to fix the leaks . I also want to helicoil a bunch of M6 threads, possibly all of the cam shaft bearing caps bolts and the (2) M6 threads on the block too.

Also, you may want to find someone to repair the case while it is apart. Possibly build up that area with metal?

If Kawasaki had built a motor that large, they would have also made that area thicker. While modern epoxies are great for temporary repairs it will eventually fall out again and leak. Just a thought.

Good luck on your repair.

Sayonara wrote: there are no metal Ring in the head those are carbon stains, its just a copper head gasket and nothing else, thanks for all the input

It's the top of the liners that are piano wired.
It's clear to see in your pics.
When you re-use the copper head gasket, Heat it cherry then let it cool naturally or quench in water.
Either method anneals the copper and leaves it soft but quenching is best because it will flash off the oxides leaving the copper clean needing no other scrubbing.
Use Loctite 3020 to reseal.
Spray it on both sides of the gasket in thin coats until it builds to a deep red colour the let it cure till tacky.
No other sealer or silicone is needed.
I have zero leaks doing the above and that is with a 250 hp turbo drag motor running 30psi .
Get some HD studs and torque to 42 ft/lbs.

All your input its been very valuable its not the same to build a stock engine as building a HP engine, its tricky enough doing it from scratch but taking over an engine that someone else did its a different matter.
I took everything apart and I am getting c=the cases welded, then I am going to source the parts for that engine the pistons are not longer made from MTC and the rings are worn so either I go 1427 or do have custom made a set of 4 pistons and rings so I do not bore again the cylinder that will cause more heath. or high drop it to 1325I have recently acquired a z1900 engine that was set for 1200 and it has 125 psi I all 4 cylinder I am going to take the chance to fit it in the chassis and do all the prep to fire it that was I can asses any repairs needed and then I am going to fit a 1978 kz 1000 engine completely stock that I have and already did everything oem for this bike.
I am going to use to 1400 engine for a pro street build I am doing with extended swing arm and modern front end,
I keep you guys posted.