KZ650 Clutch Issue

I recently purchased a 1978 kz650. I replaced what I thought was a broken clutch cable, adjusted it per the manual, and it felt fine. Now after starting it up the clutch no longer works. When I pull in the clutch lever there is no resistance but the lever does move back into position when I release it. I've searched the clutch threads for this but didn't find anything and was hoping someone has had this problem before. I haven't pulled anything apart yet and wanted to get some advice on what to look for before doing so. Thanks,

Did you remove the actuator helix from the cover? If so you might have gotten it indexed incorrectly. And did you adjust the helix on the cover?

Thank for your reply. No I didn't remove anything from the cover. Just removed the old clutch cable and installed the new one. Sorry but I'm not sure what the "helix" is. I'm new to motorcycles. I did adjust the slotted screw and lock nut that are on the housing cover and the nuts on the cable itself.

Nessism is referring to the clutch release mechanism that the cable attaches to under the case cover. It is the assembly at the top of the diagram in the link below

www.partzilla.com/catalog/kawasaki/motor...1978/kz650-b2/clutch

I am pretty sure that the 650 cable is like the 1000 in that there are three adjustment points that must be done in the proper order.
First be sure that the mid-cable adjuster is all the way together, providing maximum travel for the inner cable. Once the cable is installed, adjust the screw and lock nut on the engine case, then remove the slack with the mid-cable adjuster, then fine tune the lever gap at the lever adjuster.

TexasKZ, I did not take the mechanism apart. I'll try readjusting according to your instructions and see if it works. Would not following the specific order allow it to be tight and then drop out? Seems wierd that I lose all resistance after a couple of pulls on the lever. I'll pull the cover off and make sure everything is seated properly. Thanks again for your help. I truly appreciate it.

Try adjusting the cable again and see what happens.

Suddenly going slack may also be the result of the outer sheath of tha cable not being properly seated in the recess of the side cover where the cable enters. After a pull or two, the sheath will drop into the recess, causing excess slack.

Are you following the factory service manual? The procedure is well explained there. You can download one for the year before yours under the Articles tab on this website. The procedure is explained on pp. 20 and 21 I believe.

You should alo be searching for the correct manual for your year and model, as it will have any specific changes in it.

Finally got a chance to look at this. I took the cover off and made sure the cable was seated properly and that all connections were secure. I put it back together and started to adjust the cable making sure the mid-cable adjuster was all the way together. I then loosened the locknut and adjusting screw in the side cover. Then when I turned the adjusting screw in it went all the way in until the locknut stopped it and it did not touch the clutch push rod. I took the locknut off of the adjusting screw and was able to screw it in far enough to make contact with the clutch push rod but there was not enough thread left exposed for the lock nut. When I had the cover off the clutch push rod spun freely. I'll be removing the clutch cover next to see what is happening inside. I'll let you know what I find.

Does your cable has an adjuster in the middle to lengthen? If so you should be able to get some of the freeplay out that way.

Do you have the EZ Pull type? A pic would help.
Steve

I think the culprit may be one of three things, but they are all guesses at this point.
You stated you just bought the bike and replaced what you thought was a broken clutch cable, but you don’t mention if the “old” clutch cable was actually broken when you took it off. (Or if the clutch operated at any point in your ownership of the bike. ) If the old cable wasn’t physically broken, then the clutch may never have been worked properly when you bought it. But that’s neither here-nor-there.
One reason that the clutch adjustment mechanism is so far out of wack is that it might have the wrong length pushrod or a damaged pushrod that was installed by the previous owner. I’m pretty sure the pushrod is aluminum with steel contact surfaces pressed into both ends. One or more of the steel surfaces may be damaged. Or the pushrod is out if a kz550.
Or that the “throw out bearing” which is actually just a ball bearing that spins on the end of the pushrod is missing. Hence the gap that the adjuster is trying to make up for.
Or that the plunger that pushes the pressure plate is stuck/jammed in the engaged position, which means the pressure plate is stuck in the open position. I find this unlikely as there is a crazy amount of force in the pressure plate and that plunger would had to have welded itself to the inside of the transmission shaft. Again...very unlikely.
Once you remove the clutch cover and pressure plate, I truly believe you will find the ball bearing is missing.
Let us know what you find!

Throw out bearing is #22 and plunger is #23

After a busy workweek I was able to get back at this. Unfortunately I was not able to get the clutch cover off. Four of the ten screws holding the cover on are stripped out. Thanks for the information Daftrusty. Thoughts on using an EZ-Out on these?